Tuesday 25 April 2023

Skulferatu #95 - Southern Necropolis, Caledonia Road, Glasgow


I journeyed through to Glasgow on a day with clouds so low, stiff, and grey, that it looked almost as if the world had been wrapped in a pauper’s shroud of old.  An oppressive shroud of gloom that seemed to deaden all the colours of everything in the city.  As I left the train station, people rushed on by, heads down, and the snarled traffic beeped and belched along the road.  Heading down the busy streets I made my way across the Clyde and into the Gorbals area of the city, where the streets seemed almost empty.  Walking past block after block of newly built flats and houses, I ended up in an area of run down and tired looking flats and tower blocks.  There, I found the place I was looking for, a place I’d been meaning to have a wander around for a long time, the Southern Necropolis.

 

A photo of a castle like old stone building with towers - the gate house to the Southern Necropolis.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The Necropolis Gatehouse

 

A view down a pathway with trees on one side and gravestones on the other.  In the background is the gate house to the Southern Necropolis and then two blocks of 60s high rise blocks.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A view down towards the entrance to the Southern Necropolis

 

A black and white photograph showing some gravestones standing in front of a bare tree that looks almost skeletal.   Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Gravestones and skeleton like trees

 

The Southern Necropolis, like its more famous counterpart the Glasgow Necropolis, is a graveyard best described as a ‘city of the dead’.  It was opened in 1840 and over 250,000 people are buried there.  It is the resting place of many of the richest of Glasgow’s inhabitants as well as many of its poorest.  Though most of those interred there are now long forgotten, there is one name that will be familiar to many due to the product that carries his name.  That being Thomas Lipton, the man who brought the world Lipton Tea.  


Thomas Lipton was a Scottish entrepreneur who was born in the Gorbals in 1848 and spent his early life in Glasgow.  After a few years of travelling and working in the USA, he returned to Glasgow and set up a chain of grocery stores there.  By the turn of the century, he had built up a chain of over three hundred stores throughout the UK and was a very rich man.  He then got into the tea trade and conquered the American market, making himself a multi-millionaire in the process.  


Thomas was a great self-publicist who made friends in the highest echelons of society, including both King Edward VII and King George V.   However, he led a life of contradictions, as despite being quite a hard-nosed businessman who was also known for his flamboyant lifestyle, he was also deeply committed to philanthropy and was a vocal advocate for the welfare of working-class people.  He also had a reputation as being a bit of a ladies' man, something he also tended to promote himself as, but it appears likely that he was gay. He lived for nearly thirty years with a long-term male companion, William Love, who had been one of his early shop assistants, and when that relationship ended, his preference was for the company of young men.  


Thomas was a tireless innovator who was always looking for ways to improve his products and business practices.  He was also an important figure in the development of the modern grocery store.  On his death in 1931, he left most of his fortune to the city of Glasgow.

 

A photo of a fallen gravestone.  The inscription has faded away and there is a crumbling carved head of Christ at the top of it.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Fallen gravestone with face of Christ

 

A photo of the crumbling carved head of Christ on the fallen gravestone.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A weather worn and crumbling Jesus

 

A photo of a large, curved gravestone with trees in the background and in the distance a high-rise block of flats.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Gravestone and trees

 

A photo of a large gravestone covered in ivy and looking almost like some cuddly toy.  In front of it lies a fallen gravestone covered in green moss.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Ivy and moss

 

A photo of gravestones stretching off into the distance.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A field of gravestones

 

A photo of several gravestones in a grassy area with bushes and trees.  In the distance are two high-rise blocks.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Gravestones with a background view of the high-rise flats at Caledonia Road

 

In 1954 the graveyard was the scene of a rather bizarre event.  In late September of that year a rumour spread through the local schools that a seven-foot-tall vampire had strangled two little boys in the cemetery and then eaten them.  Now, you may laugh at their gullibility in believing this, but hark back to your own childhood and the wild rumours that would run through the school.  I remember as a child back in the early Seventies, I was at Primary School and the rumour went round that there was a tiger in the boys' toilet. Being five or six we all believed it, so much so, that one of my classmates ended up pissing his pants rather than risking going to the toilet.  When the teacher demanded to know why he hadn’t asked to go to the loo he told her he didn’t want to be eaten by the tiger. Who told you there was a tiger in the toilet?  She demanded to know. John - my classmate blubbered out the culprit's name.  John come here; how dare you tell lies. Whack, whack, whack.  That’s pretty much how schooling went back in Scotland in the Seventies.  A few weeks later there was a rumour that our teacher had killed one of the boys in our class for some minor misdemeanour.  There’s a knife covered in blood on her desk, one of my little chums told me and pointed to a knife on her desk with red smears on it.  When one of the girls burst into tears and asked the teacher not to kill her, it was pointed out by the teacher that her knife was in fact covered in strawberry jam, as she’d been having her breakfast of toast and jam earlier that morning in the classroom.  She then whacked some other unfortunate who she suspected to have spread the story round.

 

Anyway, getting back to 1954 and the rumours about the child eating vampire in the graveyard, the kids in the Gorbals didn’t run away crying, no, they decided to do something about it.  So, hundreds of them armed themselves with penknives, sticks and stones and descended on the graveyard to hunt down the monster.  They searched around the gravestones, behind the trees and bushes and rushed shouting at any shadow they saw.  As the crowds of children grew in number, concerned members of the public began to phone the police.  One of the first officers to arrive on the scene was Constable Alex Deeprose.  He arrived expecting to find some youths causing a bit of trouble and was shocked instead to find hundreds of terrified children who clung to him and told him about the ‘vampire with iron teeth who just had to be killed.’  He soon felt like the Pied Piper of Hamelin there were that many children following close to him and crowding around him.  Concerned parents then started coming up to him and asking if there were any truth to the rumours.  He tried to reassure everyone that there was no vampire and with the help of other officers cleared the cemetery.  However, bands of kids carried on patrolling the streets, only heading home when it began to rain.  For the next two nights, gangs of children found their way into the graveyard to carry on the hunt for the vampire.  Eventually though they tired of this and found something else to do instead. 

 

The vampire was not forgotten so quickly though by those seeking an explanation to how a tale like this could have so quickly gripped the imagination of so many children.  Some academics and politicians quickly latched on to the American ‘horror comics’ that were popular at that time, blamed them for ‘polluting’ the minds of the young and demanded that they be banned.  However, other academics and social commentators pointed out that no monster matching the vampire could be found in these comics, but rather a similar one was mentioned in the Bible, in Daniel 7:7, a ‘dreadful and terrible’ beast that ‘had great iron teeth’, and another was mentioned in a poem taught in local schools – ‘Jenny Wi’ the Airn Teeth’ (Jenny with the iron teeth).  But, at the height of a moral panic no-one tends to listen to the voices of reason and the call for the ban on the comics was taken up by the local MP for the Gorbals, Alice Cullen.  In 1955 legislation was passed, banning the so called ‘horror comics’, the video nasties of their day.

 

On my visit to the graveyard today I saw no signs of anyone approaching seven foot tall and certainly no one with iron teeth.  Apart from one dog walker the place was empty, just me, the birds singing in the trees, and the buried remains of a quarter of a million people.

 

A photo of a curved gravestone with a large stone urn sitting on it.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Urn and gravestone

 

A view through the graveyard showing fallen gravestones in the foreground, with gravestones standing behind and trees and bushes in the distance.   Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A graveyard view

 

A photo of a gravestone with ivy around it.  The stone has a curved iron guard around it that is a rust orange.  The top part of the gravestone is missing.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Iron and stone – grave of Isabella Wilson and numerous others

 

A black and white photograph showing a tall gravestone with a small tree growing out from it, making it look like the tree is exploding from it.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Tree exploding from old gravestone

 

I left the Skulferatu that had accompanied me on my trip, in a gap in the patterned carving on a faded and crumbling gravestone.

 

A photo of a faded and crumbling gravestone.  The decoration around the top of the stone is the only part that has not faded away.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A faded and crumbling gravestone

 

A close up of the top of the faded gravestone and the carved decoration around it.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Detail of the faded and crumbling gravestone

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 95) being held up in front of the crumbling and faded gravestone at the Southern Necropolis.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #95

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 95) sitting in the decoration at the top of the faded and crumbling gravestone in the Southern Necropolis.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #95 in hollow a in the outer pattern on the gravestone

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 95) sitting in the decoration at the top of the faded and crumbling gravestone in the Southern Necropolis.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #95 in hollow a in the outer pattern on the gravestone

 

TomTom Map showing location of Skulferatu #95
Map showing location of Skulferatu #95

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 

Latitude 55.842726

Longitude -4.246083

 

what3words: drain.tests.luxury

 

I used the following sources for information on the Southern Necropolis and the Gorbals Vampire –

 

Southern Necropolis, Gorbals City of the Dead

southernnecropolis.co.uk

 

iNews

Thomas Lipton: from a Glasgow slum to yachting with kings

 

Daily Mirror – Saturday September 25th 1954

 

Edinburgh Evening News - Saturday 25 September 1954

 

Aberdeen Evening Express - Friday 1 October 1954

 

BBC - Child vampire hunters sparked comic crackdown

BBC News - Scotland

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tuesday 11 April 2023

Skulferatu #94 - Guardhouse, Leith Fort, North Fort Street, Leith, Edinburgh


Once upon a time, long long ago, in a far off land there was a fort full of soldiers...well, actually not that long ago there was a fort full of soldiers in Leith.  And being a fort in Leith it was aptly named – Leith Fort.  Now, all that remain of it are a bit of the wall, the main gate, and the guardhouses.

 

A photo showing some high stone walls with an entrance where a gate must have once stood and two doorways in.  The entrance is blocked by two bollards and in the distance on the right hand side can be seen a building with some pillars at the front - this is one of the Leith Fort guardhouses.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Walls and guardhouse at Leith Fort

 

A photo from another angle showing the high stone walls with an entrance where a gate must have once stood and two doorways in.  The entrance is blocked by two bollards and in the distance on the left hand side can be seen a building with some pillars at the front - this is the other Leith Fort guardhouses.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Walls and guardhouse at Leith Fort

 

An old postcard showing the walls and entrance to Leith Fort around 1900.  Outside are some men in soldiers uniform and some women and children.  Several of the children have bare feet.  At the top of the postcard is printed 'Entrance to Leith Fort.'
Entrance to Leith Fort – Postcard by Valentine & Sons

 

Leith Fort was built in the 1780s to protect the harbour at Leith, the city fathers being spurred into action during the American war of Independence after three ships led by the Scottish American naval captain John Paul Jones, attempted an attack on Leith and were only thwarted by a storm.  

 

The original fort was designed by James Craig, the architect who designed Edinburgh’s New Town, and it had a battery of nine guns that were pointed out over Leith Harbour and the Forth.  During the Napoleonic wars, the fort was expanded quite considerably with more buildings being added to house French prisoners of war.   It then carried on as a military base, and was the headquarters for the Royal Artillery in Scotland.  In the mid-1950s the fort was closed and abandoned. 

 

A newspaper photograph taken from a high point and showing the fort walls and over into the fort where there are several buildings.  Text underneath the photo reads - 'A DESERTED FORT.  A woman hurries past the locked gates of the deserted Leith Fort, once a large artillery centre. The future of the fort depends on decisions to be taken by Edinburgh Corporation. Staunch Leithers are hoping that  Leith Fort will be demolished in the very near future and a block of modern houses erected on the old site.'
The abandoned fort in 1957

 

In the 1960s most of the buildings were demolished to make way for a large, seven storey block of flats - Fort House. A building that from the 1980s gained a notorious reputation for drugs and violence.  I have a distant memory of visiting the building once, back in the late Eighties.  On a Friday evening after work, I met up with one of my friends in a pub in Edinburgh.  At that time, we were both working in those sorts of offices where we were expected to be in suit and tie, so were suited up.  After a few beers, my friend was having one of those drunken teenage moments of regret, and decided he wanted to get back with his ex-girlfriend.  He asked if I’d chum him, not for moral support, but rather because she’d recently moved to a flat in the Fort and he was scared to go there on his own.  So off we went.  My only real recollections of the place are of a large dog that someone had tethered up outside the flats who growled and snarled at us, then, as we went into the building, some bloke on seeing us two in our suits came up to us and said - ‘Youse are no fucking debt collectors, are you?’  Shitting our pants a bit we said no, to which he replied - ‘Just as well, cause I’d ‘ave kicked yer cunts in if ya were.’ 

 

A photo of the fort walls and entrance with a large red brick block of flats standing behind it - the notorious Fort House.  Photo of Fort House by Jonathan Oldenbuck and sourced from Wikicommons.
Fort House

 

In 2009 it was decided by Edinburgh Council to demolish the flats due to maintenance issues and costs.  The tenants were then rehoused, and Fort House was demolished in 2013.  In its place were built the terraces of ‘colony style’ homes that now sit on the site.

 

A photo of the frontage of a building, one of the guardhouses.  The front roof is supported by several pillars and the wall is the background is painted red, though id covered in graffiti.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
One of the old guardhouses at Leith Fort

 

A photo of a sign in the guardhouse from when it served as the concierge's office for Fort House.  It reads 'Press for Attention.' Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Press for attention

 

A view through an arched window in the guardhouse.  The window is barred and shows a view through to another barred window and a stone wall in the background.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Window through the guardhouse

 

A side view of one of the guardhouses at Leith Fort showing a two storied building with several windows.  Those on the ground floor have been blocked off and painted black.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Leith Fort guardhouse

 

A photo of several old fashioned black cannons at Leith Fort.  They are resting on the wall as part of an architectural feature.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Some cannons - a feature on the new housing estate

 

A view over one of the black cannons to the entrance of the fort with the guardhouses on either side.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A cannon’s view of the guardhouses and fort entrance

 

Today, after my toddle around the remnants of the old fort and the new streets of new houses, I left the Skulferatu that had accompanied me in a gap by the drainpipe on one of the guardhouses.

 

A photo showing a hand holding up a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 94).  In the background is one of the Leith Fort guardhouses.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #94

 

A photo showing a black drainpipe against a grey stone wall.  A small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 94) sits in a gap between the wall and the drainpipe.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #94 in a gap by the drainpipe

 

A close up photo showing a black drainpipe against a grey stone wall.  A small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 94) sits in a gap between the wall and the drainpipe.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #94 in a gap by the drainpipe

 

TomTom Map showing location of Skulferatu #94
Map showing location of Skulferatu #94

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 

Latitude 55.976781

Longitude -3.185499

 

what3words: vague.chips.tiles

 

I used the following sources for information on Leith Fort –

 

Historic Environment Scotland

Leith Fort Lodges, North Fort Street, Edinburgh

 

Canmore

Canmore - North Fort Street, Leith Fort

 

The Sphere - Saturday 17 August 1957

 

Photo of Fort House by Jonathan Oldenbuck and sourced from Wikicommons