Tuesday 18 January 2022

Skulferatu #57 - St Paul's Churchyard, London


St Paul’s Churchyard is one of those places in the centre of London where you can escape from the chaos of the busy streets nearby.  A place to relax, contemplate life, or just sit and drink a cup of tea from one of the many nearby cafés.

 

A photo of the lane leading up to St Paul's Cathedral with the cathedral dominating the skyline in the distance.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
St Paul’s Cathedral

 

A picture taken at an angle in St Paul's Churchyard showing the dome of the cathedral and also St Paul's Cross and some trees in the grounds. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Cathedral Dome and St Paul’s Cross

 

A photo of a statue of Thomas à Becket which depicts a figure lying down with arms raised as if trying to fend off the sword blows that killed him. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Statue of St Thomas à Becket by E Bainbridge Copnall

 

A photo of a small white building standing in the churchyard.  It has wooden doors that are shut. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Mausoleum building in the churchyard

 

The churchyard wasn’t always such a relaxing place though.  It was once a place of much hustle and bustle, with markets selling cloth and other goods, booksellers selling books and shops selling music and musical instruments.  Large crowds also gathered there on one occasion to watch the execution of one of the conspirators in the Gunpowder Plot, Father Henry Garnet.  He suffered the rather unpleasant fate of being hung drawn and quartered. 

 

From the mid-15th Century to around 1635 St Paul’s Cross stood in the churchyard.  This was an open air pulpit and cross from which many sermons were preached and where large crowds gathered to hear them. During the Reformation it became an important place for the government to put forth the religious views that they espoused. 

 

A picture showing a statue on a column within the churchyard.  It is a statue of St Paul. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
St Paul’s Cross

 

A photo showing in more detail the statue of St Paul.  It is golden and the figure is holding a cross with one arm raised up.  At the back of his head is a halo denoting that he is a saintly figure. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Statue of St Paul

 

A photo of a blue plaque commemorating the original St Paul’s Cross.  Above the text is the face of an angelic looking figure.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Plaque commemorating original St Paul’s Cross

 

The original St Paul’s Cross is long gone, but it is now commemorated by a monument that stands nearby to where it once stood.

 

I left the Skulferatu that accompanied me during my wander around the churchyard in a hollow in a tree near to the St Paul’s Cross monument.

 

A small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 57) being held up in the grounds of St Paul's Churchyard.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #57

 

A small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 57) in the hollow of a tree standing in St Paul's Churchyard in central London. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #57 in hollow in tree near to St Paul’s Cross

 

A close up picture of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 57) in the hollow of a tree standing in St Paul's Churchyard in central London. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #57 in hollow in tree near to St Paul’s Cross

 

Google Map showing location of Skulferatu #57
Map showing location of Skulferatu #57

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 

Latitude 51.514174

Longitude -09.097577

 

I used the following sources for information on St Paul’s Churchyard -

 

British History Online

St Paul's: The churchyard | British History Online

 

Wikipedia

Wikipedia - St Paul's Cross

Tuesday 11 January 2022

Skulferatu #56 - River Thames Foreshore by Trig Lane Stairs, Paul's Walk, London

 

Many times, as I’ve walked around central London, I have passed stairs leading down into the murky waters of the Thames.  Sometimes, if I’m lucky, the tide is out, and I can take a stroll along the foreshore to do a bit of mudlarking.  I am not a very dedicated mudlarker though, so my collection of items recovered from the mud and sands of the Thames amounts to not much more than a jar full of clay pipe stems and a couple of water worn plastic toys.

 

Trig Lane Stairs lead down to the foreshore from Paul’s Walk, near to the Millennium Bridge.  I have passed these many times, but never ventured down them.  So, while out killing some time before meeting up with a friend, I came across them and decided to go down and have a look around.  The stairs themselves are not for the faint hearted, or doddery old farts like me, as they are quite steep.  However, I managed to get down them without any mishaps.

 

A picture from the foreshore of the River Thames showing the Millennium bridge crossing the river and various high rise office buildings in the background.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Foreshore of the Thames with the Millennium Bridge in the background

 

A view over the River Thames to the Tate Modern Building with the Millennium Bridge running along at the side.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
View from the foreshore over to the Tate Modern

 

A view under the Millennium Bridge over the River Thames to the Tate Modern Building.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Under the Millennium Bridge

 

I took a little time wandering around the shore which was a mish mash of pebbles, water smoothed bricks, sand and mud.  Amongst all of this were piles and piles of animal bones.  Brown with age and mud I assumed they must hark back to a time when there was a slaughterhouse or butcher’s nearby.  Or maybe just lots of ale houses selling mutton on the bone with the waters of the Thames being an easy place to dispose of all the waste.  Then there were the thousands of clay pipe stems and pieces of the pipe bowls, these being the fag ends of their day.  I collected up a few of these and wondered who the smokers were who had puffed away on the coarse tobacco in them a couple of hundred or so years before.  I suppose it could be anyone from a great literary mind or political thinker to a gin soak.  I ain’t ever going to know, but its fun to imagine the life of the person who had puffed away on it.

 

A view over the River Thames to a group of high rise office buildings in South London.  In the foreground is the pebble shore of the Thames.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
View from foreshore by Trig Lane Stairs

 

A picture showing the view over the pebble strewn foreshore of the River Thames to the Shard building in London.  There are various posts of rotting wood sticking up out of the mud and pebbles.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
View over the Thames to the Shard

 

As more people began to make their way down the stairs to explore the shore, I found a place to discreetly leave the Skulferatu who had accompanied me down there.  I left it in a small sandy patch, just under the Millennium Bridge.

 

A picture of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #56) being held up.  In the background can be seen the foreshore of the River Thames and in the distance the Shard building.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Skulferatu #56

 

A picture of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #56) lying face up in the sand and pebbles of the River Thames foreshore.  A clay pipe stem lies near to it.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Skulferatu #56 in the sand on the shore of the Thames

 

TomTom map showing the location of Skulferatu #56
Map showing location of Skulferatu #56

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 

Latitude 51.510631

Longitude -0.098475

 


 

Tuesday 4 January 2022

Skulferatu #55 - Graveyard at Parish Church of Penpont, Keir and Tynron, Penpont, Dumfries and Galloway

 

Penpont is a small village in Dumfries and Galloway.  It was once an important staging post for travellers, and on the main street it has a tearoom and gallery that is still a popular stopping off point for cyclists, ramblers, locals, and tourists.

 

The man who may have invented the bicycle, Kirkpatrick Macmillan, lived a short distance from Penpont, and Joseph Thomson, the explorer who gave his name to Thomson’s Gazelle, was born in the village.

 

The Parish Church of Penpont, dominates the skyline of the village, and stands on a low hill above the Scaur Water.  It was designed by Charles Howitt and built in 1867 to replace the church that originally stood on the site.  The design of the church is a large cruciform in the Gothic style, with a tall tower and spire in the north-east corner.  It was constructed using local pink sandstone.

 

A photograph showing a view over a field to a church with a very tall spire in comparison to the building.  This is the Parish Church of Penpont, Keir and Tynron.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The Parish Church of Penpont

 

The gravestones in the graveyard date mainly from the 17th to 18th centuries, though there were some that dated from the 11th and 12th centuries.  These, however, were removed and are now in Dumfries Museum.  Among those buried in the graveyard is John Ross, a soldier who fought at the battle of Waterloo defending the Quarte Bras Farmhouse. 

 

A photograph of several old and worn gravestones in Penpont Churchyard, with the Parish Church in the background.
Gravestones in Penpont Churchyard

 

A black and white photograph showing a detail of a memorial in Penpont Churchyard.  It is of a carved skull and crossbones, amongst other decorative images on worn stone.
Detail of memorial in Penpont Churchyard

 

A photograph of a red stone grave with a carving at the top of a face and wings.  The grave is of a man named Samuel Hislop.
Grave of Samuel Hislop

 

A photograph of an old gravestone in Penpont Graveyard.  At the top is carved a round face with wings underneath.  The writing on the stone is illegible.
Gravestone at Penpont Churchyard

 

A photograph of a faded, carving of a round style skull on a gravestone.  The stone is covered in lichen and Memento Mori is carved around the skull.
Memento Mori – detail from a gravestone

 

A photograph of a gravestone in Penpont Graveyard.  It ists next to a fence of iron railings on which is attached a homemade sign reading - Please do not drive over graves thank you.
Please Do Not Drive Over Graves Thank You

 

A photograph of an old gravestone at Penpont Churchyard.  Carved on it is a head with wings underneath and below that an hourglass lying on its side as if to signify that time is up.
Gravestone at Penpont Churchyard

 

A photo of a table top style gravestone.  The photo shows the bottom end of the stone and the legs, between which is carved a head with wings underneath.  The gravestone is very worn.
Gravestone of Patrick Boyle

 

I left the Skulferatu that accompanied me on my walk in the shelter underneath a table top gravestone.  The engraving on the gravestone was badly worn, but it appeared to be the grave of one Patrick Boyle, who had died in the 1790s.  In the gap underneath there were bits of old, broken pottery, some spiders, and the lower branches of a nearby holly bush.  My Skulferatu joined them there.

 

A photo of a hand holding up a small, ceramic skull with the lower part of Penpont Parish Church in the background.  Skulferatu #55
Skulferatu #55

 

A photo of a small, ceramic skull (Skulferatu 55 lying in a grassy patch underneath one of the gravestones.  There is some old, broken pottery near to it.
Skulferatu #55 under Patrick Boyle’s gravestone

 

Google Map showing location of Skulferatu #55 near to the Parish Church of Penpont, Keir and Tynron.
Map showing location of Skulferatu #55

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 

Latitude 55.231176

Longitude -3.811273

 

I used the following sources for information –

 

Scotland’s Churches Trust

Penpont, Keir and Tynron Church

 

Penpont Heritage Centre

Penpont Heritage Centre