Skulferatu #99 - West Walls, Newcastle upon Tyne

 

When you think of the walled cities in Britain, the ones that most commonly spring to mind are York and Chester, however many of the more ancient cities in the UK, like Newcastle, were at one time protected by a defensive wall.  As the old saying goes – ‘If walls could talk, what tales they would tell’, and at around seven hundred years old the town walls of Newcastle must have quite a bit of gossip for us.

 

Looking along the wall from the Chinese Arch

 

The town wall around Newcastle was built during the 13^th and 14^th centuries to defend the town from attack and occupation, during a time of hostilities between England and Scotland.  The wall was around two miles long, varied in height from fourteen feet to twenty three feet and was surrounded by a defensive ditch.  There was a parapet on top of the wall, seventeen towers, six main gates, three side gates and seventeen water gates at the Quayside, allowing access to the riverside. 

 

The West Walls

The West Walls

 

On several occasions the wall helped repel attacks by Scottish forces, but in 1644, during the Siege of Newcastle by the Scottish Covenanters, the wall was breached, and the Scots army took control of the city and surrounding area.  Once this conflict was over, the walls were repaired and strengthened.  They were further strengthened during the Jacobite Rebellions in 1715 and 1745, as it was feared that the Jacobite troops may invade.  However, they didn’t and in the subsequent peace the walls fell into disrepair with some parts being demolished, and others being scavenged for building material.

 

Morden Tower

 

The West Walls

 

Path running down the back of the walls

 

The Wall

 

Today, several parts of the wall remain, the best preserved of these can be found in the west of Newcastle, in the Chinatown area.  Several of the wall towers still stand, these being Herber Tower, Morden Tower, Ever Tower and Durham Tower. 

 

Morden Tower

 

Morden Tower was for many years a famous literary hub and was used as a venue where many poets and writers came to give readings of their work.  Those giving readings there included Allen Ginsberg, Seamus Heaney, Carole Anne Duffy, Ted Hughes, Roger McGough, Derek Mahon, Brian Patten, and Stevie Smith.

 

Durham Tower

 

All in all, you’re just another stone in the wall

 

On my walk around the walls, I made my way down to Durham Tower, which is one of the most intact of the original towers.  There, I left the Skulferatu that had accompanied me in a gap in the cement between the stones, underneath one of the windows.

 

Skulferatu #99

 

Durham Tower

 

Skulferatu #99 in a gap in the tower wall

 

Skulferatu #99 in a gap in the tower wall

 

Skulferatu #99 in a gap in the tower wall

 

Map showing location of Skulferatu #99

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 

Latitude 54.971149

Longitude -1.620655

 

what3words: class.slick.bronze

 

I used the following sources for information on the West Walls –

 

Co-Curate - Newcastle Town Walls

 

Historic England - Town Wall, Newcastle

Skulferatu #98 - Dog Leap Stairs, Newcastle upon Tyne

 

There is a steep drop from the centre of Newcastle to the riverside area.  This means there are lots of steep roads and steep stairs.  In fact, there seem to be an endless number of stairs taking you up or down.  There is even a set of stairs that starts in the middle of nowhere and ends suddenly, having gone nowhere.  So, if you ever fancy going on a keep fit weekend, don’t waste your money on a gym or spa break, just come to Newcastle and run up and down the stairs.

 

Set of stairs leading nowhere

 

Dog Leap Stairs are one of the most well known in Newcastle and lead from the Side, near the Quayside, to the Castle Garth, an open area by the Black Gate, which was part of Newcastle Castle.  Though the name of the stairs conjures up images of dogs leaping and made me think there had to be some exciting story of bravery and courage by some scrawny mutt, it appears the origin of the name is not that exciting.  It probably came from the term ‘dog-loup’ which referred to the way the stairs curve around, making them resemble the shape of a dog’s hind leg.

 

Entrance to Dog Leap Stairs

 

Street sign for Dog Leap Stairs

 

Dog Leap Stairs

 

Dog Leap Stairs was once the scene of a dramatic chase.  In the late eighteenth century, Bessie Surtees, the daughter of a wealthy Newcastle banker, met and fell in love with a young trainee cleric called John Scott.  However, Bessie’s father didn’t think much of John, or his prospects, so forbade them from meeting in an effort to kill off their romance.  But of course, love doesn’t work like that, and Bessie and John secretly planned to run off together.  On the night of November 18, 1772, Bessie climbed out of her bedroom window and met John, who was waiting outside.  As they made their escape on horseback, legend has it that they were spotted, and chase was given.  With a bit of encouragement, John managed to persuade their horse that a gallop up Dog Leap Stairs was just what it needed, and up it went, leaving their pursuers behind.  The couple then made their way to Scotland, where they were married.  They later reconciled with Bessie’s family and had a long and happy marriage.  Despite Bessie’s father’s doubts about John and his prospects, John proved him wrong by going on to become the Lord High Chancellor of Great Britain and the Earl of Eldon.

 

View from halfway up the stairs

 

View from Dog Leap Stairs

 

View of the Black Gate from the top of Dog Leap Stairs

 

Unlike John Scott’s horse, I didn’t gallop up the steps, rather, with my old and somewhat knackered knees, I managed to stumble my way up to the top of the stairs.  Then I stumbled my way back down again.  On my way back down, I left a Skulferatu in a conveniently sized hole in the brick wall running up by the steps.

 

Skulferatu #98

 

Skulferatu #98 in a conveniently sized hole in the brick wall

 

Skulferatu #98 in a conveniently sized hole in the brick wall

 

Map showing location of Skulferatu #98

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 

Latitude 54.969343

Longitude -1.610039

 

what3words: gallons.shins.worker

 

I used the following sources for information on Dog Leap Stairs –

 

Sunniside Local History Society - Newcastle Place Names

 

Sitelines - Dog Leap Stairs, Newcastle

 

Wikipedia - John Scott, 1st Earl of Eldon