Kevin Nosferatu: Bessie Surtees

There is a steep drop from the centre of Newcastle to the riverside area. This means there are lots of steep roads and steep stairs. In fact, there seem to be an endless number of stairs taking you up or down. There is even a set of stairs that starts in the middle of nowhere and ends suddenly, having gone nowhere. So, if you ever fancy going on a keep fit weekend, don’t waste your money on a gym or spa break, just come to Newcastle and run up and down the stairs.

A photograph showing some steps leading up a wall and then ending abruptly against another stone wall. Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.

Set of stairs leading nowhere

Dog Leap Stairs are one of the most well known in Newcastle and lead from the Side, near the Quayside, to the Castle Garth, an open area by the Black Gate, which was part of Newcastle Castle. Though the name of the stairs conjures up images of dogs leaping and made me think there had to be some exciting story of bravery and courage by some scrawny mutt, it appears the origin of the name is not that exciting. It probably came from the term ‘dog-loup’ which referred to the way the stairs curve around, making them resemble the shape of a dog’s hind leg.

A black and white photo showing a street with a wall in the foreground, a set of steps going up and beyond that some brick buildings. There is a sign on the wall of the building by the steps that reads Dog Leap Stairs. Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.

Entrance to Dog Leap Stairs

A photo of a red brick wall with an old fashioned iron type street sign on it - the sign reads Dog Leap Stairs. Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.

Street sign for Dog Leap Stairs

A picture showing a steep and narrow set of stone stairs going up with a stone wall on one side and a red brick wall on the other. Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.

Dog Leap Stairs

Dog Leap Stairs was once the scene of a dramatic chase. In the late eighteenth century, Bessie Surtees, the daughter of a wealthy Newcastle banker, met and fell in love with a young trainee cleric called John Scott. However, Bessie’s father didn’t think much of John, or his prospects, so forbade them from meeting in an effort to kill off their romance. But of course, love doesn’t work like that, and Bessie and John secretly planned to run off together. On the night of November 18, 1772, Bessie climbed out of her bedroom window and met John, who was waiting outside. As they made their escape on horseback, legend has it that they were spotted, and chase was given. With a bit of encouragement, John managed to persuade their horse that a gallop up Dog Leap Stairs was just what it needed, and up it went, leaving their pursuers behind. The couple then made their way to Scotland, where they were married. They later reconciled with Bessie’s family and had a long and happy marriage. Despite Bessie’s father’s doubts about John and his prospects, John proved him wrong by going on to become the Lord High Chancellor of Great Britain and the Earl of Eldon.

View from halfway up the stairs

A view from Dog Leap Staits showing a building on the left hand side, a building below and at the front and an old fashioned looking street lantern on a wall on the right hand side. Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.

View from Dog Leap Stairs

A view of a tall and old fashioned looking red brick building of towers with steep roofs - this is the Black Gate at the top of Dog Leap Stairs. Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.

View of the Black Gate from the top of Dog Leap Stairs

Unlike John Scott’s horse, I didn’t gallop up the steps, rather, with my old and somewhat knackered knees, I managed to stumble my way up to the top of the stairs. Then I stumbled my way back down again. On my way back down, I left a Skulferatu in a conveniently sized hole in the brick wall running up by the steps.