Showing posts with label Steep. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Steep. Show all posts

Tuesday 11 June 2024

Skulferatu #121 - Jacob's Ladder, Edinburgh

 

There are many long and steep footpaths and sets of stairs named ‘Jacob’s Ladder.’  They can be found all over Britain and elsewhere in the world. The name comes from the Biblical story in which Jacob had a dream where he saw a ladder that reached from the earth up to the heights of heaven. It was quite a busy ladder with lots of angels ascending and descending it. This prompted many a wit to later ask why they would do so if they had wings. Anyway, Edinburgh also has a Jacob’s Ladder, a narrow and steep path of winding stairs that rises from Calton Road up to Regent Road. The path was first recorded on a map in 1784, but is likely to have been in existence long before then.

 

A photo showing railings and an entrance down some steps, the cityscape of Edinburgh is in the background.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Entrance to Jacob’s Ladder on Regent Road

 

A view down steep steps curving around a corner.  On both sides there is a wall and in the distance can be seen a large stone wall with a tower and then railway lines and a cityscape of old and tall tenement like buildings.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A view down the steps

 

A view showing a stone tower on the right hand side and then down below railway tracks leading into a large and white roofed station building.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A view from Jacob’s Ladder over Waverley Station

 

A photo looking down on a train on the railway tracks.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A train passing below Jacob’s Ladder

 

Supposedly the path was once used as a funeral procession route from the Old Town of Edinburgh up to the Old Calton Burial Ground. How they did this, I’m not sure given the steepness of the path and the number of stairs, but seemingly they did.  Of course, back then there were maybe no stairs, just a very steep, twisting path. If that was the case, I can picture in my mind the bodies being lugged up the hill on the back of a cart by some worn out old pony, panting and snorting as it dragged its load, while behind it the black clad mourners huffed and puffed, as a fine Edinburgh drizzle soaked them through.

 

In 1860, a royal visitor paid a visit to and made their way down Jacob’s Ladder. Empress Eugenie, the wife of Napoleon III of France, had taken a brief trip up to Edinburgh, where she went for a walk around the city with her entourage. After visiting Calton Hill, much to the amazement of the gathered press, she led those with her down the steep and narrow path of Jacob’s Ladder in the sleet and rain, as she wanted to walk up to Arthur’s Seat. Unfortunately, the weather being so bad, she only made it as far as St Anthony’s Chapel in Holyrood Park before deciding to call it a day.

 

A view of steep and wet stone steps curving around with a stone wall on both sides.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A view down Jacob’s Ladder

 

A view through the bare branches of a tree to an old stone, tower like building.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View of the Governor’s House from Jacob’s Ladder
(this is all that remains of Calton Jail)

 

Jacob’s Ladder is gated at both entrances, and now these lie open all day every day. However, back in December 1883, these were heavily guarded when ten members of a group known as the Dynamitards were held at the nearby Calton Jail, awaiting trial at Edinburgh High Court. The Dynamitards were a group of Irish Republicans who wanted to establish an independent Irish Republic and, in the cause of this, carried out a bombing campaign, blowing up various sites in London and Glasgow with dynamite. The reason for the overwhelming security on Jacob’s Ladder while they were held at Calton Jail, was that there was a ‘wide sewer’ going up to the jail that could be easily accessed from the path by removing a couple of steps. Given this, there were worries that other members of the group could attempt a rescue or even just dynamite the jail. At the conclusion of the trial, all ten were found guilty of various roles within the bombing campaign, with five sentenced to life imprisonment, and the other five to seven years.

 

Over the years Jacob’s Ladder fell into disrepair, and at night became a path of shadows and darkness with a reputation as a place to be avoided. Then, in 2019 it was refurbished with handrails and lighting, making it a slightly less scary place for a nocturnal walk.

 

A photo of a stone wall sprayed with silver paint and then a black letter D sprayed on it.  On the wall are also the silhouettes of branches and leaves. Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
‘D’ – Shadows on wall

 

A black and white photo showing various metal structures and wires stretching off into the distance - the infrastructure for the electrification of the railway line.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Pylons and wires – towards Waverley Station

 

A black and white photo looking up a set of stone steps.  On either side is a stone wall - the wall of the right is sprayed with graffiti.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A view up the steps

 

A view under a bridge to an entrance in a brick wall.  On the wall are several neon light art pieces showing boats and a white boned skeleton.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The entrance to Jacob’s Ladder from Calton Road

 

An arched stone doorway in a brick wall with a sign hanging down that reads Jacob's Ladder.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The entrance to Jacob’s Ladder from Calton Road

 

On my wandering up and down the path of Jacob’s Ladder, it was busy with people going to and from work, and tourists exploring. This surprised me given what a wet day it was, and made it difficult to find a place to discreetly put a Skulferatu without looking like I was up to no good. However, during a quiet spell I found a hole in the wall that the Skulferatu with me could slip in nicely, and so I left it there. Then, as I made my way back up, I spotted a flash of brown fur on the grassy slope beside the stairs. Thinking it was one of the many city rats, I called out a hello and a little head appeared out of the undergrowth. The little head of a rather cute looking stoat, who gave a stare and quick sniff and then disappeared back out of sight.

 

A hand, gloved in fingerless gloves, holding a small Ceramic Skull (Skulferatu 121) with the stone steps of Jacob's Ladder in the background.   Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #121

 

A small Ceramic Skull (Skulferatu 121) in a small hole in a stone wall that has been spray painted white with a red border added.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #121 in a hole in the wall

 

A close-up of the small Ceramic Skull (Skulferatu 121) in a small hole in a stone wall that has been spray painted white.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #121 in a hole in the wall

 

TomTom Map showing location of Skulferatu #121
Map showing location of Skulferatu #121

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are -

 

Latitude 55.952903

Longitude -3.182683

 

what3words: brass.sector.stops

 

I used the following sources for information on Jacob’s Ladder –

 
Tourist Information at site
 

Edinburgh News and Literary Chronicle - Saturday 24 November 1860
 

Evening Gazette - Tuesday 11 December 1883

 
Edinburgh Evening News - Saturday 22 December 1883

 

Tuesday 6 June 2023

Skulferatu #98 - Dog Leap Stairs, Newcastle upon Tyne

 

There is a steep drop from the centre of Newcastle to the riverside area.  This means there are lots of steep roads and steep stairs.  In fact, there seem to be an endless number of stairs taking you up or down.  There is even a set of stairs that starts in the middle of nowhere and ends suddenly, having gone nowhere.  So, if you ever fancy going on a keep fit weekend, don’t waste your money on a gym or spa break, just come to Newcastle and run up and down the stairs.

 

A photograph showing some steps leading up a wall and then ending abruptly against another stone wall.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Set of stairs leading nowhere

 

Dog Leap Stairs are one of the most well known in Newcastle and lead from the Side, near the Quayside, to the Castle Garth, an open area by the Black Gate, which was part of Newcastle Castle.  Though the name of the stairs conjures up images of dogs leaping and made me think there had to be some exciting story of bravery and courage by some scrawny mutt, it appears the origin of the name is not that exciting.  It probably came from the term ‘dog-loup’ which referred to the way the stairs curve around, making them resemble the shape of a dog’s hind leg.

 

A black and white photo showing a street with a wall in the foreground, a set of steps going up and beyond that some brick buildings.  There is a sign on the wall of the building by the steps that reads Dog Leap Stairs.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Entrance to Dog Leap Stairs

 

A photo of a red brick wall with an old fashioned iron type street sign on it - the sign reads Dog Leap Stairs.   Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Street sign for Dog Leap Stairs

 

A picture showing a steep and narrow set of stone stairs going up with a stone wall on one side and a red brick wall on the other.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Dog Leap Stairs

 

Dog Leap Stairs was once the scene of a dramatic chase.  In the late eighteenth century, Bessie Surtees, the daughter of a wealthy Newcastle banker, met and fell in love with a young trainee cleric called John Scott.  However, Bessie’s father didn’t think much of John, or his prospects, so forbade them from meeting in an effort to kill off their romance.  But of course, love doesn’t work like that, and Bessie and John secretly planned to run off together.  On the night of November 18, 1772, Bessie climbed out of her bedroom window and met John, who was waiting outside.  As they made their escape on horseback, legend has it that they were spotted, and chase was given.  With a bit of encouragement, John managed to persuade their horse that a gallop up Dog Leap Stairs was just what it needed, and up it went, leaving their pursuers behind.  The couple then made their way to Scotland, where they were married.  They later reconciled with Bessie’s family and had a long and happy marriage.  Despite Bessie’s father’s doubts about John and his prospects, John proved him wrong by going on to become the Lord High Chancellor of Great Britain and the Earl of Eldon.

 

A view down Dog Leap Stairs showing buildings on the left hand side and a stone wall and pillars on the other side.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View from halfway up the stairs

 

A view from Dog Leap Staits showing a building on the left hand side, a building below and at the front and an old fashioned looking street lantern on a wall on the right hand side.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View from Dog Leap Stairs

 

A view of a tall and old fashioned looking red brick building of towers with steep roofs - this is the Black Gate at the top of Dog Leap Stairs.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View of the Black Gate from the top of Dog Leap Stairs

 

Unlike John Scott’s horse, I didn’t gallop up the steps, rather, with my old and somewhat knackered knees, I managed to stumble my way up to the top of the stairs.  Then I stumbled my way back down again.  On my way back down, I left a Skulferatu in a conveniently sized hole in the brick wall running up by the steps.

 

A photo of a hand holding up a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 98) with Dog Leap Stairs in the background.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #98

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 98) appearing to be stuck on a brick in a brick wall.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #98 in a conveniently sized hole in the brick wall

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 98) appearing to be stuck on a brick in a brick wall.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #98 in a conveniently sized hole in the brick wall

 

Google Map showing location of Skulferatu #98
Map showing location of Skulferatu #98

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 

Latitude 54.969343

Longitude -1.610039

 

what3words: gallons.shins.worker

 

I used the following sources for information on Dog Leap Stairs –

 

Sunniside Local History Society - Newcastle Place Names

 

Sitelines - Dog Leap Stairs, Newcastle

 

Wikipedia - John Scott, 1st Earl of Eldon