Showing posts with label London. Show all posts
Showing posts with label London. Show all posts

Tuesday, 13 October 2026

Skulferatu #157 - Joseph Grimaldi's Grave, Joseph Grimaldi Park, Islington, London


 

If you are scared of clowns then read no further, as my ramblings today are about a visit to the grave of the King of the Clowns.  The man who invented modern clowning and the whiteface look that we now associate with them.  The look that causes those with coulrophobia to break out in a fearful sweat, feel their mouths dry up and their hearts beat that little bit faster.

 

So, on one of the hottest days of the year I found myself in a hotel in Farringdon in London with some time to kill.  What to do?  Where to go?  A quick search on Google maps for places of interest and the grave of Joseph Grimaldi popped up as being a short walk away.  Who Grimaldi was, I had no idea at that time, but hey ho, a bit of research and all was revealed.

 

Following the directions Google Maps prompted me to follow, I found myself wandering through some leafy backstreets past some very upmarket town houses.  Up hill and downhill and round a couple of small parks, I walked past a blue plaque telling me Vladimir Lenin had lived nearby for a short while and then going down through some more leafy streets I came to Joseph Grimaldi Park.  The park was once the graveyard of St James’s Episcopal Chapel but was transformed into a public garden in the late Nineteenth Century and then later named after Grimaldi.

 

Wandering through the park, in the shade of the horse chestnut and lime trees, I passed by various people sitting on benches.  Some were reading, some drinking coffee or tea and others were passed out in drunken abandon.  One chap, who bore a striking resemblance to the late Derek Jarman, walked around hugging the trees and then sprinkling himself with bird seed, stood stock still while pigeons landed on his head, shoulders and outstretched arms to feed.  I should have taken a photo, but I didn’t.

 

A photo showing two coffin shaped and sized plaques on the ground in a park with trees and hedges in the background.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Joseph Grimaldi Park

 

A photo showing a gravestone almost hidden under the green leaves of a bush growing around it. 
Leafy gravestone in the park

 

A photo showing dozens of old gravestones standing in front of the wire fence around a basketball court. 
Gravestones by the basketball court in the park

 

In a sunny spot, and overlooked by a modern office building, I found the grave of Grimaldi, enclosed in railings and well-tended. On the now weather worn gravestone there was a plaque bearing an image of him in his clown regalia with made up face and mohawk hairstyle.

 

A photo showing a gravestone with a metal railing fence around it.  On a bench to one side lies a sleeping man with some cider bottles lying on the ground by him. 
Grave of Joseph Grimaldi

 

A photo showing a grave fenced off by metal railings.  Plants grow around the gravestone.  A plaque in front of the railings reads Joseph Grimaldi 1778 to 1837 and gives details of his life. 
The Grave of Joseph Grimaldi

 

A photo of the gravestone of Jospeph Grimaldi.  It is a weatherworn off-white coloured stone. 
Weatherworn grave of Joseph Grimaldi

 

A close up of Grimaldi's gravestone showing a ceramic portrait of him as a clown with a mohican haircut and made up face. 
Portrait of Grimaldi on his gravestone

 

A photo showing the comedy & tragedy masks on the black painted railings around Grimaldi’s grave. 
Comedy & tragedy masks on the railings around Grimaldi’s grave

 

Joseph Grimaldi was born in 1778 into a theatrical family.  His father was Joseph Giuseppe Grimaldi, an actor and dancer who was known as Giuseppe or the Signor, while his mother, Rebecca Brooker, was a dancer at the Theatre Royal in Drury Lane.  Giuseppe was a strange and quite unpleasant sounding man.  He had various mistresses with children all over the place, and he only moved in with Joseph’s mum when she bore him a second son and he had sudden visions of setting up an acting dynasty.  He was a strict disciplinarian who beat up his children, and mistresses, for very little or no reason.  Giuseppe also developed an obsession with his own death and would on occasion play dead to see how his children would respond.  And if he didn’t like how they reacted he would beat them up. 

 

Giuseppe did not like the idea of anyone being idle, so when Joseph was around two and a half years old, he had him on stage as part of his act.  When Joseph was not needed on stage Giuseppe would tell him to stand in the corner of the dressing room and not move, something that was very difficult for Joseph, as he was a born entertainer and liked to perform for the others there.  If Giuseppe then came back and found that Joseph had moved, he would fly into a rage and slap him around.  Lovely chap.

 

Somehow, through all of this, Joseph thrived and became a regular at Drury Lane.  Then, at the age of nine, Joseph’s father died, and he became the main breadwinner for the family.  Working at both Drury Lane and Sadler’s Wells theatres, Joseph had to often run between one to the other to do his acts.  That might not sound like any great feat, but at that time the theatres were separated by some fields, London not having yet expanded into all the countryside around it.

 

Going into adulthood, Joseph’s career took off and he made the role of Clown in the pantomimes of the day his own.  Pantomimes back then were not as we now know them as being something only performed around Christmas time, as during that era only three London theatres were allowed to have dialogue on stage, so to get around this the pantomime was born, as these had only songs and catchphrases along with physical movements and mime.  The clown was an important role in these pantomimes and Grimaldi excelled in this role.  He became celebrated for his acrobatic skills, physical acting, wild facial expressions, and wicked activities onstage. He then changed the costume and make-up of the clown from the traditional look of ragged clothes and plain face by wearing very colourful and extravagant clothes, and daubing his face white, with a huge red gash of a mouth and red, ruddy cheeks.  This was topped with one of several Mohican or tufted wigs in various bright colours.  Thus, the modern clown was born.

 

A colourful sketch showing Joseph Grimaldi as a clown.  He is wearing multi-coloured pantaloons, his face is made up with large red lips and red rouged cheeks and he has a mohican style haircut.  In his hands he holds a bottle of wine and a glass. 
Grimaldi as Clown by George Cruikshank

 

A sketch showing Grimaldi dressed as a clown.  He has vegetables stuffed in his pockets and has a knife in one hand and a plate in the other on what looks like a joint of beef. 
Portrait of Grimaldi from The Sketch

 

For over three decades Joseph or ‘Joey’ as his clown persona became known, thrilled huge audiences, not only in London but up and down the country, appearing in theatres in Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leicester, Chester, Birmingham, Liverpool, and Hereford to name but a few.  Charles Dickens recalled as a child how delighted he had been in seeing Grimaldi perform, though he was not his only big-name fan, the poet and all-round cad Lord Byron loved Grimaldi’s act, as did the philosopher, critic and essayist William Hazlitt.

 

However, for all the delight he gave, Joseph was prone to falling into deep depressions and this led to the image of him being the melancholy clown, something that he often played on.  He would quip that – ‘I make you laugh at night but am Grim-All-Day’.  He also told the story of how he had visited a famous physician who told him one of the best ways for him to overcome his melancholia was to go to the theatre and watch Grimaldi.  To which he replied – ‘Alas! That is of no avail to me; I am Grimaldi.’

 

Joseph’s melancholy personality was not helped by the many tragedies he suffered.  In 1800, his first wife, Maria Hughes, died in childbirth along with their unborn child.  Her death almost destroyed Joseph who lost himself in his work to cope and almost ruined his health in the process. 

 

Then there was the mystery surrounding his brother, John Baptiste.  He had left the world of the theatre after deciding it was not for him, and he had gone off to sea.  Years later, Joseph was appearing at Drury Lane when a stranger appeared at the stage door asking for him.  On popping down to see who it was, Joseph found his brother John there.  He had returned from sea after having made his fortune.  John hugged Joseph in delight at seeing him and told him how well he had done and boasted that he was carrying six hundred pounds cash in his pocket, probably not the wisest thing to do in a busy theatre where you don’t know who might be listening in.  Before they could have a proper catch-up, Joseph was called to the stage and John promised to wait for him.  However, when Joseph came back to find him, John was gone.  Joseph went looking for him but could find him nowhere.  After weeks of fruitless searching no trace could be found of John and it was suspected that he had been lured away and murdered. 

 

There was also the tragic life of Joseph’s son, through his second marriage.  Also called Joseph, though known to his friends and family as JS.  He was a young and talented actor who fell into alcoholism, destroyed his health, became estranged from his parents and died in suspicious circumstances. 

 

These tragic events, and Joseph’s physical exertions during his performances, eventually took their toll on his health.  He became crippled by pain and after one final goodbye show, had to retire from the stage. 

 

A sketch showing Joseph Grimaldi sitting on a chair on the stage of a theatre.  He is dressed as a clown, but it is obvious he has aged. 
Illustration of Grimaldi at his Goodbye Show

 

After the death of his son and his wife, he lived alone, though most evenings he was carried to the local public house by a friend.  There he would drink and entertain the other patrons with tales of his time in the theatre and the personalities he had worked with.

 

On the evening of Wednesday 31 May 1837, Joseph was in the local pub where he had his usual couple of drinks while recounting some humorous tales.  On being taken home he seemed to be well, but before going to bed told his housekeeper that he had some pains in the chest.  On going to wake him the next morning she found him dead in bed.  And thus ended the life of the King of Clowns, Joseph Grimaldi.

 

After having a wander around the graveyard, or park as it is now, I left the Skulferatu that had accompanied me in a curve in the railings around Grimaldi’s grave.

 

A photo showing a hand holding up a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #157) with the grave of Joseph Grimaldi in the background. 
Skulferatu #157

 

A photo showing a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #157) sitting in the curve of the black metal railings that surround Joseph Grimaldi's grave. 
Skulferatu #157 in a curve in the railings around Grimaldi’s grave

 

Google Map showing location of Skulferatu #157 
Map showing location of Skulferatu #157

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 

Latitude 51.531762

Longitude -0.114659

 

what3words: reform.pull.glow

 

I used the following sources for information on Joseph Grimaldi –

 

Public Information signs in Grimaldi Park
 
London Evening Standard, 3rd June 1837
 
The News (London), 11th June 1837
 
Memoirs of Joseph Grimaldi
Edited by ‘Boz’
1853
 
The Sketch, 5th February 1941
 
The Pantomime Life of Joseph Grimaldi, Laughter, Madness and the story of Britain’s Greatest Comedian
Andrew McConnell Stott
2009

 

 

Tuesday, 9 June 2026

Skulferatu #152 - Crystal Palace Dinosaurs, Crystal Palace Park, Bromley, London

 

On a chilly February morning, while down in London, I thought I might go and visit some old friends I hadn’t seen for a while.  A bunch of old dinosaurs I’d last bumped into a least a decade ago.  Now, I’m not being insulting with my old dinosaur remark, as these friends are a bunch of Victorian models of dinosaurs.  Models of what Victorian scientists thought dinosaurs looked like based on the knowledge that they had at that time, so not particularly accurate.  Certainly not like the dinosaurs we would recognise today, but rather just a group of monstrous lizards and fishy like things. 

 

Arriving at Crystal Palace Station, I walked up the rather wide, grand stairs that lead up and out of the building and to the entrance of the park.  Then walking up and around a rather muddy path, slippery and slidey from all the February rain, I made my way to the ponds where the dinosaurs live.  And there they were in all their faded glory.

 

A statue of a dinosaur head sitting on the ground and encircled by a low stone wall.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Hylaeosaurus head at entrance to dinosaur trail

 

A view over a park showing a fenced off area of an island covered with trees and statues of dinosaurs.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
The island of dinosaurs

 

Unfortunately, time hasn’t been kind to the dinosaurs, but then they have been strutting around their island or sitting in the surrounding waters for over a hundred and fifty years.  They were built between 1854 and 1855 to accompany the relocation of the Crystal Palace building from Hyde Park, where it had stood for the Great Exhibition of 1851, to a new park at Sydenham Hill.  The sculptor who was tasked with creating them was Benjamin Waterhouse Hawkins, while the landscape, or ‘Geological Court’ in which they would sit, was designed by Joseph Paxton.

 

Several statues of dinosaur type creatures sitting in water and reeds.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Plesiosaurs & a Ichthyosaur

 

A statue of a long necked dinosaur type creature sitting on mud in some water.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
A Plesiosaur

 

A photo of statues of a long necked dinosaur and two crocodile type creautures sitting in water and reeds.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
A Plesiosaur & a couple of Teleosaurus

 

A photo showing the head of a sharp toothed, long snouted lizard type  creature in amongst reeds and water.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
An Ichthyosaur

 

The dinosaurs at Crystal Palace represent an early interpretation of extinct life and were the first attempt to create full-size three-dimensional models of these creatures.  They were based on interpretations of fossils and bones that Waterhouse Hawkins had examined, though he also consulted several experts in palaeontology at that time, including Richard Owen.  Together they worked out what the animals should look like, though if no agreement could be reached, Waterhouse Hawkins did the best he could with what little information he had. 

 

An illustration showing a barn like structure with large scale models of dinosaurs standing in it. 
Illustration showing some of the dinosaur models
in the workshop at Crystal Palace Park

 

Altogether Waterhouse Hawkins made thirty-seven models of dinosaurs and other extinct animals.  He would have carried on making many more if financial constraints had not put a stop to the project.

 

On completion, the models were quite a hit with the public, who could access the island they were on and marvel at the size of these monstrous beasts. 

 

A cartoon showing a man dressed in old fashioned clothes leading a boy in a top hat through the dinosaurs.  The boy is crying as if afraid of them.  The caption of the cartoon reads - A VISIT TO THE ANTEDILUVIAN REPTILES AT SYDENHAM - MASTER TOM STRONGLY OBJECTS TO HAVING HIS MIND IMPROVED. 
A cartoon of the dinosaurs – Punch, 1855

 

As scientific knowledge on dinosaurs increased, the models at Crystal Palace became seen as something of an embarrassment given their inaccuracies.  They are now, however, seen as important objects in the history of science that represent the Victorian understanding of the prehistoric world.  In 2007 they were classed as Grade I listed buildings and restoration work is ongoing to preserve them.

 

A photo showing a statue of a large dinosaur standing on the ground amongst some trees.  It has sharp teeth and a frightening look about its face.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
A Megalosaurus

 

A photo showing the head of the Megalosaurus statue looking sharp teethed and vicious.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Head of the Megalosaurus

 

A photo showing two dinosaurs standing on a scrubby hill.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
A couple of Iguanodon

 

A photo showing the statue of a large green dinosaur standing amongst the trees.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
A hungry Iguanodon

 

A photo showing the green head of the statue of the Iguanodon.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Iguanodon head

 

A photo showing the statue of the green Iguanodon dinosaur appearing to be peering through the trees at the photographer.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
A hungry Iguanodon peeking through the trees

 

A photo showing a dinosaur sitting in a lake.  Above it are trees and rising above that is a huge television transmitter.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
A Mosasaurus in the lake

 

A photo showing the statue of a Mosasaurus dinosaur sitting in the water with its sharp toothed mouth leering up at the sky.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
A Mosasaurus

 

Wandering along the pathways around the lake surrounding the dinosaur island, I passed numerous families and groups of tourists who had come to see these fabulous old creatures.  Most seemed to love them, posing for photos with a dinosaur or two standing behind them, though one small child did pass me howling in disappointment – ‘…but they’re not alive.  I wanted to see real ones.’  Sorry mate, I thought, but you’re quite a few hundred million years too late for that.

 

After a good wander around, I left the Skulferatu that had accompanied me resting on the eyelid of the Hylaeosaurus head sitting at the start of the dinosaur trail.

 

A photo showing a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #152) being held up with some of the Crystal Palace Dinosaurs in the background.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Skulferatu #152

 

A statue of a dinosaur head sitting on the ground and encircled by a low stone wall.  A small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #152) can be seen resting on its eyelid.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Skulferatu #152 on the eyelid of a Hylaeosaurus

 

A small, ceramic skull (Skulferatu #152) sitting on the eyelid of the statue of the Hylaeosaurus head.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Skulferatu #152 on the eyelid of a Hylaeosaurus

 

A small, ceramic skull (Skulferatu #152) sitting on the eyelid of the statue of the Hylaeosaurus head.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Skulferatu #152 on the eyelid of a Hylaeosaurus

 

TomTom Map showing location of Skulferatu #152 
Map showing location of Skulferatu #152

 

The coordinates for the Skulferatu are -

 

Latitude 51.417273

Longitude -0.068557

 

what3words: mixed.smug.skirt

 

I used the following sources for information on the Crystal Palace Dinosaurs –

 

 
 
The Art and Science of the Crystal Palace Dinosaurs
Mark P Witton & Ellinor Mitchell
2022

 

Note:  Since my visit, the restoration work on the dinosaurs has been completed.  They now look quite fabulous and are well worth a trip out to have a look at.

 

Tuesday, 28 October 2025

Skulferatu #142 - St Olave's Church, Hart Street, London

 

Sometimes, when I’m out and about I’ll meet a building and fall in love with it.  That happened today while I was wandering around the streets in the heart of the City of London.  Walking along in a bit of a daydream I glanced up to see in the distance in front of me an arched stone gateway topped with some carved skulls.  Intrigued, I went over and had a look.  The gateway led into a small garden area with some old, old gravestones and then the small and rather quaint looking church of St Olave’s, an ancient little building sitting in amongst a load of modern office blocks. Entering the building I found a little peaceful haven from the noisy world outside.  A place just dripping with atmosphere and tinged with the silent voices and memories of generation upon generation of worshippers and visitors who had spent time here.  A place where I just wanted to sit down on the pews and absorb the ambience.

 

A photo of people walking towards an ornate gateway.  By it are railings and a notice stating St Olave's Church.  In the background are tall office buildings. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Gate to St Olave’s Churchyard

 

A photo of a stone, arched gateway with carved skulls and spikes at the top of it.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The Gates of St Ghastly Grim

 

A photo of three skulls on the gate and spikes in the arch above them. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The skulls and spikes of St Ghastly Grim

 

A photo of a small church with a rectangular tower.  The church sits in a small churchyard with trees and a few gravestones in it. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
St Olave’s Church

 

A view of the small churchyard - a path runs through a lawned area to the doorway and there are a few gravestones standing in amongst the grass of the lawn. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The Churchyard

 

Now, you may wonder who is this St Olave that the church is named after.  Well, he was King Olaf II from Norway who in 1014 came to England and helped Æthelred the Unready claim his throne back from the Danish King, Cnut (a name that should always be spell checked).  At the Battle of London Bridge, he and his men scored a decisive victory against the Danes and recaptured London for Æthelred. After his time in England, Olaf spent some time in France where he converted to Christianity, before returning to Norway.  There he was credited with the Christianisation of the country before losing the crown to King Cnut and being forced into exile.  In 1030 Olaf was killed at the Battle of Stiklestad.  He was then canonised just a year after his death and became the patron saint of Norway.

 

A sketch of a street view showing the outside of a small church (St Olave's) with some people walking past.
Northeast view of St Olave’s

 

A sketch of St Olave's from the churchyard, showing the tower and trees with a few people mulling around.
St Olave’s Church – the south side

 

An old black and white photograph showing the inside of St Olave's with pews on each side leading down to a large stained glass window.
Interior of St Olave’s Hart Street 1894

 

The site on which St Olave’s Church stands is believed to have been a place of worship since the 11th Century.  The original church was likely to have been a simple wooden building which was replaced with a stone built church in the late 12th or early 13th Century.  In the 1460s two merchants from the City, Richard and Robert Cely, had that church replaced with the present building.  St Olave’s was one of the few churches that escaped the flames of the Great Fire of London in 1666.  It was saved by the forward thinking of Sir William Penn who ordered his men from the nearby naval yard to blow up the houses around the church to create a fire break.  The church went on to survive pretty much intact, with a few interior and exterior alterations, right up until World War II when it suffered severe damage during several bombing raids.  It was then rebuilt between 1951 to 1954.

 

A black and white newspaper photo showing a damaged building with a roof that has collapsed into the interior - bomb damage to St Olave's.
WW II bomb damage to St Olave’s - Illustrated London News

 

St Olave’s Church is one of those places that connects you back to many historical figures who have worshipped there.  Queen Elizabeth I, while still Princess Elizabeth, held a thanksgiving service there in 1554 to celebrate her release from the Tower of London.  She had been imprisoned there for a few months by her sister Queen Mary, also known as Bloody Mary for her penchant for having Protestants executed.

 

A colour photo showing the interior of the church of St Loave's with pews leading down to a stained glass window and arches running along on each side of the pews. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Inside St Olave’s Church

 

A photo of an ornate stained glass window showing several characters including Christ on the cross and someone who may be St George. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Stained glass window in church

 

A black and white photo of a bust of a woman sitting above a memorial with skulls on either side. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Memorial to and bust of Elisabeth Pepys

 

A black and white photo showing a carved skull sitting atop a ledge with a cherub face below. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Detail of memorial for Elisabeth Pepys

 

A wooden roof with a square of blue and gold in the centre of it. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Detail of the roof of the church

 

The diarist Samuel Pepys was a regular worshipper there who affectionately referred to St Olave’s as ‘our own church’.  Though he cared much for the building he did not always appreciate the sermons there, writing in his diary – ‘So to church again, and heard a simple fellow upon the praise of church musique, and exclaiming against men’s wearing their hats on in the church, but I slept part of the sermon, till latter prayer and blessing was all done without waking which I never did in my life…’  When Pepys wife Elisabeth died, he had a marble bust of her made and installed on the north wall of the sanctuary.  There, she faced out to where he would sit in the church so that he could see her and feel she was there with him.  On his death in 1703, Pepys was buried alongside the body of his wife in the nave of the church.

 

A stained glass window showing three female figures on it -Queen Elizabeth, Saint Mary & Saint Catherine. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Stained glass window showing Queen Elizabeth, Saint Mary
& Saint Catherine

 

A detail from a stained glass window showing a sailing boat on the sea.  It flies the flag of England and the figure of a saint stands at the front with another saintly figure at the back who is rowing with a giant oar. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Detail from church window

 

A statue of a man praying.  The statue is painted to give him a more lifelike appearance. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Monument to Dr Peter Turner, Died May 27th 1614

 

A monument with four figures in the centre - a man and woman praying with two women facing away from them.  Above are two skulls in ornate circular carved frames and below are some creeping looking children who appear to be swaddled.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Monument to Sir James Deane, his three wives and his children

 

A carving of two slightly creepy looking children lying down in swaddling with a deaths head for a pillow. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Detail of monument to Sir James Deane

 

A back view of a kneeling man with a view of the church behind him. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View by the Bayning Monument

 

A view of a lectern with a carved birds head at the front. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Lectern

 

A old painted notice on the church wall that reads - John Highlord Senior and Skyner of London in his life being of the age of fourscore and seven years did give forty shillings yearly to be bestoed in New Castell cole for the relief of the poor of this parish and doth allow for four sermons yearlie for ever as by his will at large dooth appear.  1619. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Notice on church wall

 

The author Charles Dickens was also a bit of a fan of St Olave’s and the gateway decked with skulls.  He commented that it was ‘one of my best beloved churchyards, I call the churchyard of Saint Ghastly Grim… This gate is ornamented with skulls and cross-bones, larger than life, wrought in stone, but it likewise came into the mind of Saint Ghastly Grim, that to stick iron spikes atop of the stone skulls, as though they were impaled, would be a pleasant device…I once felt drawn to it in a thunderstorm at midnight…and found the skulls most effective, having the air of a public execution and seeming, as the lightning flashed, to wink and grin with the pain of the spikes.’

 

Though the churchyard of St Olave’s is tiny, it is the resting place of lots and lots of people.  Of those whose bones lie in the ground under your feet as you walk through the little oasis of green, the names of most are now either lost to time or mean nothing to us, their histories long gone.  One of the names that stands out though is that of Mother Goose, who was buried there in 1586.  Who she was no-one seems to know, and it is unclear if she was the inspiration for the pantomime character or maybe just an elderly woman with the surname Goose.  Hundreds of victims from the 1665 plague outbreak were also buried there, including Mary Ramsay, who was believed to have been the person who brought the disease to London.

 

After soaking up the atmosphere of St Olave’s, I made my way out to the churchyard.  There, in early afternoon sunshine, I left the Skulferatu that had accompanied me in a hollow in a tree.

 

A hand holding a small, ceramic skull (Skulferatu 142) with a view of St Olave's Church in the background. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #142

 

A small, ceramic skull (Skulferatu 142) sitting on the hollow by a cut branch in a tree.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #142 in a hollow in a tree

 

TomTom Map showing location of Skulferatu #142
Map showing location of Skulferatu #142

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are -

 
Latitude 51.510767
Longitude -0.079496
 
what3words: found.equal.decay
 

I used the following sources for information on St Olave’s Church –

 
Memoirs of the City of London and its Celebrities
John Heneage Jesse
1802
 
The Annals of the Parishes of St. Olave Hart Street and Allhallows Staining, in the City of London
Rev. Alfred Povah
1894
 
Illustrated London News - Saturday 24 May 1941
 
Our Own Church
Eileen Grey
2014