Tuesday, 3 August 2021

Skulferatu #39 - The Monk's Cave, Charles Hill, Aberdour, Fife

 

To reach Charles Hill in Aberdour one has to go a bit off the beaten track and also endure the horror of having to walk through part of a golf course.  However, apart from that the walk is quite enjoyable with some spectacular views over the Forth to Inchcolm Island.  So, on a busy summer’s day I set off from Aberdour Railway Station and off along the High Street on a pavement so narrow that it became a bit of a game of dodging other pedestrians and the cars that were whizzing by.  Luckily, I made it without any misfortune befalling me, and turned down onto Beech Avenue.  I followed this down to a narrow path that led through a field of cows who were being guarded by a very large black bull.  Thankfully, there were a couple of fences between us, as I wouldn’t have fancied my chances if he’d taken a dislike to me.   I then followed a path that ran around the fence of Braefoot Terminal and led to the staff car park there.  At the back of that was another path that led into the far end of Aberdour Golf Course and down to a gate with a large sign on it stating – Lambs and Ewes, Keep Out.  I assume the sign was for any passing sheep and a warning for them to keep out, as the land behind is quite obviously not used or suitable for pasture or farming.  So, I climbed the gate and wandered on in. 

 

Following an overgrown path, I walked round to the concrete shells of various WWII buildings.  These were all long abandoned and appeared to have gained a new use as drinking dens, given the amount of beer bottles and spirit bottles lying around.  Inside some of the buildings the concrete floors were carpeted in broken glass that crunched underfoot.  Beer cans lay scattered around along with empty cigarette packets and sandwich containers, that were crushed and mouldering in the damp.  There was very little left in the buildings from their time of use other than a few rusting iron bars on the walls.  Outside, on the rocky beach below lay various metal objects, their identity and use hidden under decades of rust. 

 

Abandoned concrete WWII buildings on Charles Hill, Aberdour with the blue waters of the Forth in the distance.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Abandoned WWII buildings on Charles Hill

 

Abandoned concrete WWII Pillboxes on Charles Hill, Aberdour.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Abandoned WWII Pillboxes

 

Abandoned concrete WWII Pillbox with graffiti on wall of a man's face in side profile.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Abandoned WWII Pillbox with graffiti on wall

 

Defensive concrete blocks on beach with abandoned concrete WWII building in background on Charles Hill, Aberdour.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Defensive concrete blocks on beach with abandoned WWII building in background

 

After wandering around these buildings, I got back onto the path and made my way round to the Monk’s Cave.  The path takes you so that you come out on top of what appears to be the cliff edge, with a view over to Inchcolm Island in front of you and Braefoot Terminal to the side.  However, you are actually standing on top of the Monk’s Cave in an area where there was once a building that would have housed the travellers waiting to go over to the abbey on Inchcolm Island.  There is a steep path at the side that then takes you down and to the entrance of the Monk’s Cave. 

 

The Monk’s Cave is not actually a cave at all, but rather it is the lower storey of a building which was probably a shelter for those crossing to Inchcolm and also a warehouse for goods being transported to the monastery on the island.  The building was built into the side of the cliff on which it stands, with part of the cliff being excavated for its construction.  The walls and entrance to the remains of this building are believed to date from the late 15th Century. 

 

The Monk’s Cave, a small stone building perched above a rock face on Charles Hill, Aberdour.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The Monk’s Cave

 

The Monk’s Cave, a small stone building perched above a rock face on Charles Hill, Aberdour.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Rocks leading up to the Monk’s Cave

 

A closer view of the small stone building that is the Monk’s Cave on Charles Hill in Aberdour.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View of the Monk’s Cave

 

The Monk’s Cave entrance with the industrial, metal structure of Braefoot Terminal in the background.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The Monk’s Cave entrance with Braefoot Terminal in the background

 

Inside the cave it was damp, and the earthen floor was pitted with regular circles from what I assume must be the dripping of water from above when it rains.  So, its not much of a shelter anymore.  The old stone walls are damp to the touch and ferns grow out from the cracks and pits.  As I wandered around, clouds of midges rose from the damp ground, these were not however the vicious Highland midges that can drive a man to madness from the pain and itch of their gnawing and biting at his flesh, but rather little Lowland midges that annoy and irritate, that get up your nose and into your mouth as you breathe.  So, given the damp and the clouds of annoying insects, I can’t really imagine that any weary traveller would want to spend the night here now.

 

A photo of Inchcolm Abbey, a ruined church sitting on Inchcolm Island, with the Forth and the buildings of Edinburgh in the background.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Inchcolm Abbey

 

Looking out from the Monk’s Cave - a photo from inside the cave looking out through the darkness of the building to the doorway and the sea and sky out beyond.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Looking out from the Monk’s Cave

 

Inside the Monk’s Cave, Aberdour - a photo of the man made stone structure of the cave.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Inside the Monk’s Cave, Aberdour

 

I left the Skulferatu that accompanied me on today’s walk in a gap in the walls of the Monk’s Cave.

 

Skulferatu #39 - a photo of a Skulferatu, small ceramic skull, being held with the Monk's Cave in the background.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #39

 

Skulferatu #39 in gap in wall inside the Monk’s Cave with ferns growing out the side of the wall.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #39 in gap in wall inside the Monk’s Cave

 

A close up of Skulferatu #39 in gap in wall inside the Monk’s Cave with ferns growing out the side of the wall.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #39 in gap in wall inside the Monk’s Cave

 

Map showing the location of Skulferatu #39 in the Monk's Cave, Charles Hill, Aberdour.
Map showing the location of Skulferatu #39

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 

Latitude 56.038981

Longitude -3.307354

 

I used the following sources for information on the Monk’s Cave –

 

The Royal Commission on Ancient and Historical Monuments & Constructions of Scotland, Eleventh Report with Inventory of Monuments and Constructions in the Counties of Fife, Kinross, and Clackmannan (p99-100)

EDINBURGH

1933 (Reprinted 1935)

 

Canmore

Canmore - Charles Hill, Monks' Cave

 

 

Article and photographs are copyright of © Kevin Nosferatu, unless otherwise specified.