Tuesday, 12 November 2024

Skulferatu #129 - Brompton Cemetery, Old Brompton Road, London


It was a quick stop off in London and the sun was out.  With time to kill I wondered where I should go.  Maybe I should do something touristy like take a boat down the Thames, wander down Oxford Street, or pay a small fortune to visit the Tower of London, but hey, when in the sprawling metropolis why not visit a sprawling necropolis?  So, that is what I did and headed off to Brompton Cemetery.  A cemetery so crowded that in places the gravestones are almost touching each other.

 

A view down a road with gravestones and monuments on each side.  At the end of the road is a domed building.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
View down Central Avenue to the Chapel

 

A view down a road with gravestones and monuments on each side.  At the end of the road is a domed building.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
View down Central Avenue to the Chapel

 

A view of several gravestones - many are crosses, though one has a pile of carved  stone cannonballs on it.  Next to this stands a family mausoleum.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Tomb and gravestones and cannonballs

 

A close-up view of the carved stone cannonballs on a grave.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Cannonballs and gravestones

 

A black and white photo showing a skeletal looking tree standing in foliage with gravestones all around.   Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
A skeletal tree dancing in the sun

 

Brompton Cemetery opened its gates to its first resident in 1840.  It is one of the seven garden cemeteries in London that were created between 1833 and 1841 to alleviate the overcrowding in the city’s graveyards.  When it opened it was outside of London, and sat amongst the fields in the countryside by the sleepy hamlet of Brompton.  Now it is about a twenty minute Underground ride from the city centre. 

 

The cemetery was originally a privately run business, and in order to attract customers was designed to be an attractive place where one’s corpse could spend eternity.  I mean, who wants to rot away in unpleasant surroundings?  In order to achieve the pretty environment that those in the Victorian era would want to have their final rest in, the cemetery was given a formal layout, the buildings within it were designed in a classical style and it was landscaped with various types of trees. 

 

Under the Metropolitan Internment Act of 1850, Brompton Cemetery was bought by the government and nationalised, the only private cemetery to be purchased this way under the act.  It is Britain’s only Crown cemetery and is now in the care of the Royal Parks Agency.  Brompton Cemetery is still a working cemetery, and you can get buried there if you fancy it.

 

A view over the cemetery showing various gravestones surrounded with a burst of various green plants and bushes.  Beside the grave at the forefront of the photo are several bright red poppies. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Poppies and gravestones

 

A photo showing a part of the cemetery crowded with hundreds of gravestones.  A tree stands in amongst them.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
The dead crowd around

 

A photo of an ornate mausoleum that looks very much like a small church.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
A mausoleum

 

A black and white photo showing various gravestones stretching off down to the catacomb buildings.  In the forefront is an stone angel leaning onto a cross and looking mournful.   Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Angel and crosses

 

A photo showing lots of cross style gravestones stretching down to a road.  Behind the road are more gravestones and then the catacomb buildings.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Gravestones and catacombs

 

There are various movers and shakers and celebrities buried at Brompton Cemetery, such as the leader of the Suffragette movement, Emmeline Pankhurst, the founder of the Cunard Line, Samuel Cunard, the journalist, Bernard Levin, and the actor Brian Glover.  However, as I wandered around I wasn’t celebrity spotting, but rather looking for some interesting stories, something there is always plenty of in a big graveyard. 

 

The first one I found was through a rather intriguing gravestone dating from the First World War, it was that of Reginald Warneford, which as well as depicting the man buried underneath, also included a scene of a plane flying away from an exploding airship.  It turns out that Warneford was a bit of a war hero.  During the First World War the German Zeppelins were a complete menace, as my late Grandaddy recalled.  As a small boy he witnessed one dropping bombs over his home city of Leicester.  These attacks struck terror in the civilian population and the military authorities were unsure of how the airships could be stopped.  One day, Warneford, a young airman who had only been qualified as a pilot for three months was out on patrol in his plane somewhere between Ghent and Bruges when he spotted a Zeppelin.  Flying above it, he dropped six bombs at close range, with the last hitting the Zeppelin and setting it on fire.  The explosion from his bomb flipped his plane upside down and caused his engine to cut out.  He, however, managed to regain control of the plane and land it.  Slight problem though, he was deep within enemy territory.  Frantically he tried to restart his plane, and after fifteen minutes the engine came back into life.  He hastily took off and returned back to base.  There he received a hero’s welcome being the first man to destroy single-handily one of the dreaded airships.  For this he was awarded a Victoria Cross.  Sadly, this was awarded to him posthumously, as ten days after taking out the Zeppelin he was killed while he carried out a test flight on a new plane which broke apart in midair.   His body was repatriated to England where over fifty thousand people attended his burial at Brompton Cemetery.

 

A photo of a tall whitish gray gravestone.  At the top is craved the facial portrait of a young man wearing a military type cap while underneath there is a carving of an aeroplane and an exploding airship.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Grave of Reginald Warneford

 

A detail of a gravestone showing an biplane flying away from an exploding airship.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Detail of Reginald Warneford’s gravestone

 

As I wandered around the cemetery I began to notice a similarity between the wording on lots of the gravestones, the gravestones of many of the women.  Unlike those of the men, these said very little about them.  No acknowledgements of achievements or of the lives lived, but rather everything said about them related to the men in their lives, their husbands, fathers, or sons.  One of the gravestones I came across was for Lisette, who is remembered as being the daughter of John Scott, the niece of Colonel Scott of Gala and the wife of Professor William Gregory.  For a stone in her memory, it says nothing about her.  So, I thought I’d delve into some records and see if I could find out who Lisette was.  Lisette Scott was born in 1805 in Germany and was the second of three sisters.  She was well connected to various members of the British aristocracy, as on her father’s side she was related to the Lairds of Gala, at Galashiels in the Scottish Borders, while her mother, ‘Miss Munro’ was related to Sir Donald MacDonald, Laird of the Isles, and her maternal grandmother had been Lady in Waiting to the Princess of Wales, mother to King George III. Lisette took on the name Makdougall after the death of her cousin when her family inherited the estate of Makerstoun in Roxburghshire, and thus became Lisette Makdougall Scott.  Lisette was brought up in Scotland by her aunt and recalled her childhood as being a happy one.  She was an accomplished musician and was popular in fashionable society for her ‘wit and repartee’.  However, she was more interested in, and at home, in the world of science.  In 1839 she married William Gregory, Professor of Chemistry at Edinburgh University, taking his name to become Lisette Makdougal Gregory.  While in Edinburgh Lisette and William both developed a common interest in Spiritualism, with William writing work on that, as well as Mesmerism and Animal Magnetism, all really trendy ideas at that time.

 

A photo of a gravestone that reads 'In memory of Lisette daughter of John Scott brother of Colonel Scott of Gala and widow of Professor William Gregory died May 24th, 1885.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Grave of Lisette Makdougal Gregory

 

On her husband’s death, in 1858, Lisette moved down to London with her son.  There she became a bit of a name in the Spiritualist movement (a religious movement which believed that an individual's awareness persists after death, and that the dead can be contacted by the living through a medium).  Her house became a gathering place for Spiritualists with many séances being held there by various mediums.  During these séances furniture would move around the room and apparitions of the dead would appear.  Lisette herself was a ‘writing medium’, meaning that the spirits of the dead would take control of her hand and cause her to write what they wanted to say.  The Spiritualist movement is now seen by most as complete bunkum and was rife with charlatans and conmen, however Lisette seems to have been a true believer who wrote a couple of pamphlets on the subject and made contributions to the Spiritualist newspaper.  Outliving her husband, son and grandson, Lisette spent much of her later life communing with them in the spirit world at the many séances held at her home.  Lisette suffered much from ill health in her old age and died, or as her Spiritualist friends liked to say – entered into her new life with the birth of her spirit, on 24th May 1885.

 

Moving on around the cemetery I came to a large mausoleum that dominates the area it stands in, and is supposedly a time machine or a teleportation machine, a stone TARDIS in which you can travel through time and space.  Unlike many of the other large monuments this one is not for some male grandee, but rather for a rather lowly born woman who inherited a large fortune from her ‘husband’.  Hannah Courtoy, who is interred here along with two of her daughters, was born Hannah Peters in around 1784.  She left home in 1799 to escape from her drunken and abusive father, taking on work in various unskilled and menial jobs.  Then, in around 1800, she was introduced by a mutual friend, Francis Grosso, to John Courtoy and was employed by him as his housekeeper.  At this time John Courtoy was in his seventies and in poor health, but was a very rich man.  He had come to Britain from France in around 1750 and made a lot of money as a wigmaker, wigs being all the rage at that time.  He then used the money he had made from wig making to become a money lender, and through this he became very wealthy. 

 

A view over several cross type gravestones to a mausoleum standing in a wooded area.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
View over graveyard to the tomb of Hannah Courtoy

 

A photo of a stone mausoleum standing in a wooded area with a path circling around it.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Tomb of Hannah Courtoy

 

360 View of graveyard around Hannah Courtoy’s Tomb

 

 Within six years of working for Courtoy, Hannah had given birth to three daughters; Mary, Elisabeth, and Susannah.  All were baptised with the Courtoy name and Hannah claimed that John was the father of all three.  However, rumours abounded that the father of the children was in fact Francis Grosso.  Hannah then took on John Courtoy’s surname, despite the two having never married.  From all accounts she had a considerable influence over the decisions he made, something probably made easier in that he appeared to be suffering from dementia during the last two decades of his life.  In 1814 Courtoy changed his will leaving the majority of his money to Hannah and her daughters, this superseded a will he had made in 1810 in which he had left the bulk of his fortune to his previous partner Mary Woolley and their five children.  In 1818 John Courtoy died.  There was then an almighty fight over the contents of his last will with Woolley and her children, along with Courtoy’s French relatives, all disputing the contents.  They claimed that the 1814 will had been made under Hannah’s influence when Courtoy was in the throes of dementia.  The legal arguments over the will dragged on for years until 1827 when Hannah and her daughters ended up with most of the money.

 

In 1849 Hannah died and a lavish mausoleum was designed by her friend, Joseph Bonomi, to house her mortal remains.  Hannah and Bonomi had both been deeply interested in Egyptian hieroglyphics and mythology, believing that through the teachings of the ancient Egyptians they could discover some of the secrets of the universe.  They had regularly spent hours together discussing the wisdom and beliefs of these ancient people.  So, when Bonomi designed her tomb he incorporated her interests into it by having it feature some Egyptian characters along with a roof resembling a pyramid like structure.  Then, many years later, as in almost one hundred and fifty years later, rumours began to surface that the mausoleum was more than it appeared to be.  An amateur historian looking into the history of the tomb stated that his research had led him to conclude that it was a time machine and had in fact been designed by a maverick Victorian genius, Samuel Warner.  He, along with Bonomi, had built this marvellous contraption with funding from Hannah.  The idea being that the best place to build this machine would be a cemetery, as it was unlikely to be disturbed for hundreds of years, meaning they could travel into the future and return discreetly.   Once out there, the rumours grew, and it is now speculated that the tomb is also a teleportation device.  To add to the air of mystery and intrigue, the keys to the mausoleum have been lost and it supposedly has not been opened for over 120 years.  Relatives of Hannah have suggested that they may try to have a new key made so that the tomb can be opened, and so it could be that the secrets it holds, or doesn’t, will be revealed sometime in the future.

 

A view of the mausoleum for Hannah Courtoy.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Tomb of Hannah Courtoy

 

A photo showing the ornate copper green door of Hannah Courtoy's mausoleum.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Doorway to the mausoleum – or portal to another dimension


A photo of the keyhole for the door to Hannah Courtoy's tomb.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Keyhole

 

A photo of a circular emblem carved into the tomb.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Detail of designs on the mausoleum door

 

If you are ever wandering through Brompton Cemetery and you see a man in a top hat with sideburns, or a woman in an out of place vintage dress suddenly appear, it may well be because the rumours about the time machine are true.  Either that or you have stumbled across someone, probably me, on their way to, or back from, a fancy dress party.

 

I left the Skulferatu that had accompanied me on a ledge of the tomb, in the hope that it may be whisked back in time to ancient Egypt or forward into some Utopian future.

 

A photo showing a hand holding up a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 129) with the tomb of Hannah Courtoy in the background.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Skulferatu #129

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 129) sitting on a stone ledge of Hannah Courtoy's tomb.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project
Skulferatu #129 on a ledge of Hannah’s tomb

 

Google map showing the location of Skulferatu #129
Map showing the location of Skulferatu #129

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are -

 

Latitude 51.486134,
Longitude -0.191203
 

what3words: congratulations.ladder.season

 

I used the following sources for information on Brompton Cemetery –

 
Brompton Cemetery, The Top 100
The Royal Parks
2021
 
Ashbourne News Telegraph - Friday 18 June 1915
 
Torbay Express and South Devon Echo - Friday 06 January 1967
 
The Spiritualist – January 16th, 1880
 
Light: A Journal of Psychical, Occult, and Mystical Research, No 231 - Vol V, Saturday June 6, 1885
 
Records of the Family of Gregory
P. S. Gregory
1886
 
Birmingham Daily Post - Saturday 24 October 1998
 
Courtoy’s Complaint
David Godson
2014
 
The Independent – Sunday 13 December 2015