Tuesday, 14 January 2025

Skulferatu #131 - Ferrymuir, South Queensferry

 

The Ferrymuir is a busy patch of land on the outskirts of South Queensferry.  A small island of retail and hospitality that is circled by busy roads taking traffic to and from the Forth Bridges, and to and from the surrounding towns and villages.  A place of hustle and bustle, it boasts a Dakota hotel, a Tesco superstore, a couple of fast food outlets, some offices, and a small housing estate. All of this is relatively new though, as when I was a child the Ferrymuir was nothing more than a quiet, grassy field where a few cows grazed.  As children we never referred to it as the Ferrymuir, we knew it as the witches’ field, and that the local folklore was that several witches had been burned there.

 

A photo showing a parking lot full of cars with a large TESCO supermarket in the background.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Where they burned the witches

 

A photo of an urban looking area with a road and a Zebra Crossing.  There is a pavement lined with bushes across the road and a bland looking block of flats in the background. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Crossing

 

A photo showing a grassy area lined with trees and then a large black rectangular building in the background - a Dakota Hotel. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Big black building

 

A Fisheye Lens photograph showing a curved representation of the big black Dakota building. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Dakota


A photo showing a Burger King fast food restaurant with a large and very blue sky above it. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Low roof and big sky

 

A photo showing a big round sign with Burger King on it and a sign beneath pointing to the 'Drive Thru'. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Fast Food

 

A photo showing an almost empty car park with just a trailer in it.  In the background is a low roofed building that appears to be derelict. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Car park and blue sky

 

South Queensferry, like so many towns and villages in Scotland, has a dark, blood stained past linked to the Scottish Witch Trials of the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries.  Witch trials that so often seem to emanate from the influence of one religious zealot arriving in a town and deciding to rid it of those holding on to old superstitions, those they see as a nuisance, and anyone who annoys them or arouses their jealousy.  On the 1st of September 1641, just such a man arrived in the small town of South Queensferry, the new minister of the Kirk, one Ephraim Melville.

 

Melville was an enthusiastic pastor and a strict Presbyterian of the ‘Tartan Taliban’ type, who saw all around him the remnants of the Catholic faith.  In his eyes a faith of idolatry, a faith summed up in the superstitious practices and ‘preternatural fancies’ of many of those living in the town. To Melville these ‘Popish’ fancies were no better than devil worship and needed to be stamped out. It wasn’t long after his arrival in the town that he dragged it into a frenzied witch hunt.

 

The records of the witch trials in South Queensferry are patchy and incomplete, and I only have access to secondary records recording them, which adds another layer of confusion to what went on; however, it appears that at least thirteen women were accused of sorcery and using the dark arts.  Of these at least eight suffered the cruel and horrible fate of being burnt at the stake in the fields of Ferrymuir.

 

It all began in 1643 when Melville wrote in the parish records that on the 3rd of December an extraordinary session had been convened to call for the apprehension of Janet Lowrie and Helen Thomson for witchcraft.  The two women were then imprisoned that day.  It also appears that several other women were apprehended, including Helen Hill and her daughter Isobel Young.

 

Shortly after this, on the 5th of December, a woman from the town, Helen Young, approached Melville and made a complaint to him that Helen Dauline had called her a witch.  Both women were subsequently detained and imprisoned on suspicion of witchcraft, though the main reason for Helen Young’s detention appears to be because she was ‘old’.

 

Several more women were seized on suspicion of witchcraft and on the 14th of December it was noted that under questioning, or should that be torture, that three of those being held as witches, Elspeth Cant, Janet Lowrie and Helen Thomson had confessed and had also named Janet Mowbray and Marion Dauline as being witches.  These two women were then seized and imprisoned that day.  Then, for good luck, or maybe just because she was a bit of a nuisance, the local beggar, one Marion Stein was also seized and imprisoned.

 

While all this was going on, a tragedy hit the local community with the death of William Lowrie, a merchant from South Queensferry who was lost at sea, along with all his crew, when his ship sank in a storm.  Lowrie was a man of some significant standing, who had lived in a large house he’d had built for himself and his wife, Marion Speddie.  The house, which still stands on the High Street of the town is known as the ‘Black Castle’ and bears the initials of both Lowrie and Speddie on the dormer pediments.  This tragedy then took a darker turn when on the 6th of April 1644, Marion Little, who was the sister in law of William and was married to his brother James Lowrie, confessed to Melville that she had paid the ‘witch beggar’ called Marion Stein a dollar to ‘help to drowne William Lowrie’s shipe and company...’  We do not know the background to her confession or who had named her as a witch, but it is likely that it was obtained under torture and duress, as at a session of the church it had been decided that anyone accused of being a witch was to be held in irons and denied any sleep while they were in custody.  No doubt the usual humiliations and tortures were also used along with this.

 

A photo of a very old black house that sits on a cobbled street.  On the right hand side steps run down by it, and on the left the street continues with various old looking houses on it. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The Black Castle

 

On the 21st of July 1644, at a further session of the church it was decided that James Lowrie should be ordered to pay for the execution of his wife Marion Little and the execution of Marion Stein.  The records of this meeting also disclose that another woman, Catherine Logie, was to be executed with them.  It is not recorded what part she was meant to have played in the death of William Lowrie, but it was ordered that her goods and belongings were to be seized to pay for her burning, and that if there was any shortfall James Lowrie was to make up the difference.  It would appear that not long after this session of the church, that Little, Stein and Logie were led from the Tolbooth in South Queensferry and up to the Ferrymuir where they were burned at the stake together.

 

A print of an etching showing a woman with her hands tied and a man questioning her while several other men are standing in the background.  All are in old fashioned dress.
A suspected ‘witch’ being questioned

 

It is likely that much of the town was caught up in the hysteria of the witch hunt, however not everyone was onboard with it.  John Young and his son, who it seems were relations of Isobel Young and Helen Hill, spoke out against their ‘burning’ and for this were warned by Melville that if they were heard to do so again ‘they shall be fyned most sickerlie.’

 

Later the parish records record that John Young petitioned Melville for the release of his daughter Margaret who was ‘lying in prison’ after having been accused of being a witch.  Melville and his cronies eventually agreed to release Margaret, on the understanding that she would be banished from the kingdom, that if she were ever to return, she would be burned as a witch, and Young would be fined the sum of ‘fortie pounds’.  Young agreed to this, and Margaret was released.  However, the records then show that at a later session of the church it was ordered that Young be apprehended on sight for failing to carry out their demands, and that he should be imprisoned until he had paid the fine.  There are no records detailing what happened next and we can only hope that both Young and his daughter evaded capture, escaped from the clutches of Melville and lived long and happy lives.

 

By the end of 1644 the Queensferry Witch Hunt was over, and life returned to some sort of normality for the inhabitants of what was at that time a small fishing town with a busy and bustling harbour.  So, what became of Ephraim Melville you may wonder?  Well, like any good villain, he carried on regardless.  In 1649 he was appointed by the church as a commissioner for visiting the universities of St Andrews and Edinburgh, to distribute endowments to the Professors and other members working there.  Then in 1650 he left the parish at South Queensferry for the much larger and better paying one of Linlithgow. However, it seems there was some dissent amongst church members about his appointment with several objecting to him because ‘of the weakness of his voice.’   I’d like to think that this meant he had a high, squeaky voice or something like that, but there were ructions in the Presbyterian Church at that time, with different factions emerging and so this objection is probably more down to him not being on the same side as those opposing his appointment.  Those in Linlithgow didn’t have to put up with him for too long though, as in April 1653 Melville died.

 

***

 

While out in South Queensferry I had a wander around the Ferrymuir taking in the delightful sights of urban sprawl.  Walking past the Tesco supermarket, I found a little grassy haven along which ran a lichen covered fence, much which must have been there when I was a kid given how old and rotten it was. I left a Skulferatu posed in the lichen, in memory of those women denounced, persecuted, and killed in the South Queensferry Witch Hunt –

 

Margaret Brown

Elspeth Cant

Margaret Dauline

Marion Dauline

Helen Hill

Marion Little

Catherine Logie

Janet Lowrie

Janet Mowbray

Marion Stein

Catherine Thomson or Antonie

Helen Thomson

Isobel Young

 

A photo showing an old fence and style in a grassy area with lots of trees in the background. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A little grassy haven

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 131) being held up with an area of grass and trees in the background. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #131

 

A photo showing a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 131) sitting in lichen on a wooden fence with barbed wire running up above it. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #131 in a bed of lichen

 

A close-up photo showing a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 131) sitting in lichen on a wooden fence with barbed wire running up above it. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #131 in a bed of lichen

 

TomTom Map showing location of Skulferatu #131
Map showing location of Skulferatu #131

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 
Latitude 55.98263
Longitude -3.401452
 
what3words: dives.dawn.require

 

I used the following sources for information on the witches of South Queensferry –

 
Summer life on land and water at South Queensferry
By William Wallace Fyfe
1851
 
Scotland’s Places
West Lothian OS Name Books, 1855-1859, West Lothian volume 21, OS1/34/21/22
 
Witchcraft in the ‘Ferry.  Seven Witches Burned.
Linlithgowshire Gazette - Friday 08 November 1901
 
Ecclesia Antiqua
The History of an Ancient Church (St. Michael's of Linlithgow)
by John Ferguson
1905