Tuesday, 13 October 2026

Skulferatu #157 - Joseph Grimaldi's Grave, Joseph Grimaldi Park, Islington, London


 

If you are scared of clowns then read no further, as my ramblings today are about a visit to the grave of the King of the Clowns.  The man who invented modern clowning and the whiteface look that we now associate with them.  The look that causes those with coulrophobia to break out in a fearful sweat, feel their mouths dry up and their hearts beat that little bit faster.

 

So, on one of the hottest days of the year I found myself in a hotel in Farringdon in London with some time to kill.  What to do?  Where to go?  A quick search on Google maps for places of interest and the grave of Joseph Grimaldi popped up as being a short walk away.  Who Grimaldi was, I had no idea at that time, but hey ho, a bit of research and all was revealed.

 

Following the directions Google Maps prompted me to follow, I found myself wandering through some leafy backstreets past some very upmarket town houses.  Up hill and downhill and round a couple of small parks, I walked past a blue plaque telling me Vladimir Lenin had lived nearby for a short while and then going down through some more leafy streets I came to Joseph Grimaldi Park.  The park was once the graveyard of St James’s Episcopal Chapel but was transformed into a public garden in the late Nineteenth Century and then later named after Grimaldi.

 

Wandering through the park, in the shade of the horse chestnut and lime trees, I passed by various people sitting on benches.  Some were reading, some drinking coffee or tea and others were passed out in drunken abandon.  One chap, who bore a striking resemblance to the late Derek Jarman, walked around hugging the trees and then sprinkling himself with bird seed, stood stock still while pigeons landed on his head, shoulders and outstretched arms to feed.  I should have taken a photo, but I didn’t.

 

A photo showing two coffin shaped and sized plaques on the ground in a park with trees and hedges in the background.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Joseph Grimaldi Park

 

A photo showing a gravestone almost hidden under the green leaves of a bush growing around it. 
Leafy gravestone in the park

 

A photo showing dozens of old gravestones standing in front of the wire fence around a basketball court. 
Gravestones by the basketball court in the park

 

In a sunny spot, and overlooked by a modern office building, I found the grave of Grimaldi, enclosed in railings and well-tended. On the now weather worn gravestone there was a plaque bearing an image of him in his clown regalia with made up face and mohawk hairstyle.

 

A photo showing a gravestone with a metal railing fence around it.  On a bench to one side lies a sleeping man with some cider bottles lying on the ground by him. 
Grave of Joseph Grimaldi

 

A photo showing a grave fenced off by metal railings.  Plants grow around the gravestone.  A plaque in front of the railings reads Joseph Grimaldi 1778 to 1837 and gives details of his life. 
The Grave of Joseph Grimaldi

 

A photo of the gravestone of Jospeph Grimaldi.  It is a weatherworn off-white coloured stone. 
Weatherworn grave of Joseph Grimaldi

 

A close up of Grimaldi's gravestone showing a ceramic portrait of him as a clown with a mohican haircut and made up face. 
Portrait of Grimaldi on his gravestone

 

A photo showing the comedy & tragedy masks on the black painted railings around Grimaldi’s grave. 
Comedy & tragedy masks on the railings around Grimaldi’s grave

 

Joseph Grimaldi was born in 1778 into a theatrical family.  His father was Joseph Giuseppe Grimaldi, an actor and dancer who was known as Giuseppe or the Signor, while his mother, Rebecca Brooker, was a dancer at the Theatre Royal in Drury Lane.  Giuseppe was a strange and quite unpleasant sounding man.  He had various mistresses with children all over the place, and he only moved in with Joseph’s mum when she bore him a second son and he had sudden visions of setting up an acting dynasty.  He was a strict disciplinarian who beat up his children, and mistresses, for very little or no reason.  Giuseppe also developed an obsession with his own death and would on occasion play dead to see how his children would respond.  And if he didn’t like how they reacted he would beat them up. 

 

Giuseppe did not like the idea of anyone being idle, so when Joseph was around two and a half years old, he had him on stage as part of his act.  When Joseph was not needed on stage Giuseppe would tell him to stand in the corner of the dressing room and not move, something that was very difficult for Joseph, as he was a born entertainer and liked to perform for the others there.  If Giuseppe then came back and found that Joseph had moved, he would fly into a rage and slap him around.  Lovely chap.

 

Somehow, through all of this, Joseph thrived and became a regular at Drury Lane.  Then, at the age of nine, Joseph’s father died, and he became the main breadwinner for the family.  Working at both Drury Lane and Sadler’s Wells theatres, Joseph had to often run between one to the other to do his acts.  That might not sound like any great feat, but at that time the theatres were separated by some fields, London not having yet expanded into all the countryside around it.

 

Going into adulthood, Joseph’s career took off and he made the role of Clown in the pantomimes of the day his own.  Pantomimes back then were not as we now know them as being something only performed around Christmas time, as during that era only three London theatres were allowed to have dialogue on stage, so to get around this the pantomime was born, as these had only songs and catchphrases along with physical movements and mime.  The clown was an important role in these pantomimes and Grimaldi excelled in this role.  He became celebrated for his acrobatic skills, physical acting, wild facial expressions, and wicked activities onstage. He then changed the costume and make-up of the clown from the traditional look of ragged clothes and plain face by wearing very colourful and extravagant clothes, and daubing his face white, with a huge red gash of a mouth and red, ruddy cheeks.  This was topped with one of several Mohican or tufted wigs in various bright colours.  Thus, the modern clown was born.

 

A colourful sketch showing Joseph Grimaldi as a clown.  He is wearing multi-coloured pantaloons, his face is made up with large red lips and red rouged cheeks and he has a mohican style haircut.  In his hands he holds a bottle of wine and a glass. 
Grimaldi as Clown by George Cruikshank

 

A sketch showing Grimaldi dressed as a clown.  He has vegetables stuffed in his pockets and has a knife in one hand and a plate in the other on what looks like a joint of beef. 
Portrait of Grimaldi from The Sketch

 

For over three decades Joseph or ‘Joey’ as his clown persona became known, thrilled huge audiences, not only in London but up and down the country, appearing in theatres in Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leicester, Chester, Birmingham, Liverpool, and Hereford to name but a few.  Charles Dickens recalled as a child how delighted he had been in seeing Grimaldi perform, though he was not his only big-name fan, the poet and all-round cad Lord Byron loved Grimaldi’s act, as did the philosopher, critic and essayist William Hazlitt.

 

However, for all the delight he gave, Joseph was prone to falling into deep depressions and this led to the image of him being the melancholy clown, something that he often played on.  He would quip that – ‘I make you laugh at night but am Grim-All-Day’.  He also told the story of how he had visited a famous physician who told him one of the best ways for him to overcome his melancholia was to go to the theatre and watch Grimaldi.  To which he replied – ‘Alas! That is of no avail to me; I am Grimaldi.’

 

Joseph’s melancholy personality was not helped by the many tragedies he suffered.  In 1800, his first wife, Maria Hughes, died in childbirth along with their unborn child.  Her death almost destroyed Joseph who lost himself in his work to cope and almost ruined his health in the process. 

 

Then there was the mystery surrounding his brother, John Baptiste.  He had left the world of the theatre after deciding it was not for him, and he had gone off to sea.  Years later, Joseph was appearing at Drury Lane when a stranger appeared at the stage door asking for him.  On popping down to see who it was, Joseph found his brother John there.  He had returned from sea after having made his fortune.  John hugged Joseph in delight at seeing him and told him how well he had done and boasted that he was carrying six hundred pounds cash in his pocket, probably not the wisest thing to do in a busy theatre where you don’t know who might be listening in.  Before they could have a proper catch-up, Joseph was called to the stage and John promised to wait for him.  However, when Joseph came back to find him, John was gone.  Joseph went looking for him but could find him nowhere.  After weeks of fruitless searching no trace could be found of John and it was suspected that he had been lured away and murdered. 

 

There was also the tragic life of Joseph’s son, through his second marriage.  Also called Joseph, though known to his friends and family as JS.  He was a young and talented actor who fell into alcoholism, destroyed his health, became estranged from his parents and died in suspicious circumstances. 

 

These tragic events, and Joseph’s physical exertions during his performances, eventually took their toll on his health.  He became crippled by pain and after one final goodbye show, had to retire from the stage. 

 

A sketch showing Joseph Grimaldi sitting on a chair on the stage of a theatre.  He is dressed as a clown, but it is obvious he has aged. 
Illustration of Grimaldi at his Goodbye Show

 

After the death of his son and his wife, he lived alone, though most evenings he was carried to the local public house by a friend.  There he would drink and entertain the other patrons with tales of his time in the theatre and the personalities he had worked with.

 

On the evening of Wednesday 31 May 1837, Joseph was in the local pub where he had his usual couple of drinks while recounting some humorous tales.  On being taken home he seemed to be well, but before going to bed told his housekeeper that he had some pains in the chest.  On going to wake him the next morning she found him dead in bed.  And thus ended the life of the King of Clowns, Joseph Grimaldi.

 

After having a wander around the graveyard, or park as it is now, I left the Skulferatu that had accompanied me in a curve in the railings around Grimaldi’s grave.

 

A photo showing a hand holding up a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #157) with the grave of Joseph Grimaldi in the background. 
Skulferatu #157

 

A photo showing a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #157) sitting in the curve of the black metal railings that surround Joseph Grimaldi's grave. 
Skulferatu #157 in a curve in the railings around Grimaldi’s grave

 

Google Map showing location of Skulferatu #157 
Map showing location of Skulferatu #157

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 

Latitude 51.531762

Longitude -0.114659

 

what3words: reform.pull.glow

 

I used the following sources for information on Joseph Grimaldi –

 

Public Information signs in Grimaldi Park
 
London Evening Standard, 3rd June 1837
 
The News (London), 11th June 1837
 
Memoirs of Joseph Grimaldi
Edited by ‘Boz’
1853
 
The Sketch, 5th February 1941
 
The Pantomime Life of Joseph Grimaldi, Laughter, Madness and the story of Britain’s Greatest Comedian
Andrew McConnell Stott
2009

 

 

Tuesday, 8 September 2026

Skulferatu #156 - Cat Nick, Salisbury Crags, Holyrood Park, Edinburgh


My walk today took me through Holyrood Park and up Queens Drive with Salisbury Crags towering over me.  As I walked round, I passed a steep path up the hill that leads to the upper road, Radical Road, and to a split in the cliff face there.  This is known as the Cat Nick or Cat Nick Chasm.  The path and the gap in the cliff face used to be a favourite spot for people to walk and then climb up on to Salisbury Crags.  It was said that many of the leading lights in philosophy, poetry, and the Enlightenment, had climbed this, almost as a mark of passage into the intellectual elite.

 

A view up over some trees to a cliff sitting atop a steep hill.  There is a break in the cliff face - the Cat Nick.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
A view of Salisbury Crags and the Cat Nick

 

A view up a steep hill to a cliff sitting atop it.  There is a break in the cliff face - the Cat Nick.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
A view of Salisbury Crags and the Cat Nick

 

In 1854 the path up to the Cat Nick saw a young man who would go on to be a leading light in world medicine almost come to a sticky end.  Joseph Lister had been persuaded by his friend John Beddoe to walk up this dangerous and steep path.  It would appear that Lister wasn’t too keen on the idea, but after being told by Beddoe how all the great thinkers of the day had done this, he decided to go along with his friend.  About halfway up Lister’s vertigo got the better of him and he told Beddoe that he could go no further and would have to go back down. Beddoe agreed that this may be the best course of action, but as he turned to go down, he slipped and knocked out a boulder that crashed down the hillside catching Lister on the thigh.  Lister was left in agony and Beddoe raced off to get help fearing that his friend’s leg was broken.  Luckily, after being taken down from the hill and carried to the Royal Infirmary, it was found that he had suffered nothing more than severe bruising.  Many years later when Lister had become world famous for his work in using antiseptics to prevent infection in wounds, Beddoe reflected on how close he had come to death that day and on the devastating effect this would have had on the millions of people who would be helped by his discoveries.

 

A view up a steep hill covered in the yellow blossoming bushes of gorse to a cliff sitting atop it.  There is a break in the cliff face - the Cat Nick.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
A view of Salisbury Crags and the Cat Nick

 

A view over a steep gap looking out over the city of Edinburgh.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
View from the Cat Nick

 

A view over a steep gap looking out over the city of Edinburgh.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
View from the Cat Nick

 

A view over a steep gap looking out over the city of Edinburgh.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
View from the Cat Nick

 

A view looking out over the city of Edinburgh.  In the distance is Edinburgh Castle.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
View from the Cat Nick

 

There is also a much darker tale connected to this spot and to tell it we will first have to travel back in time to Eighteenth Century Ayrshire and an Excise Officer called Mungo Campbell.  Mungo was a man of good education who had joined the Scots Greys, a cavalry regiment in the British Army.  During his time in the army, he saw much action and fought against the Jacobites during the rebellion of 1745.  After the Battle of Culloden and the crushing of the rebellion, Campbell’s relative, Lord Loudoun, arranged for him to be appointed as an Excise Officer.  Campbell took up this post in carried out his duties at various towns and villages around Ayrshire.  Towards the end of his career Campbell’s health was in decline due to lung disease and he was transferred to Saltcoats, which was considered to be one of the easiest areas in Scotland for an Excise Man.  There he married and settled down, leading a relatively quiet life.  In Saltcoats he appeared to be quite a popular figure and was considered to be generous and fair, though he did like a drink and was a bit of a potty mouth with a penchant for blue language.  He was also the sort of man who was very proud and would stand his ground on any point he believed in and would hold a grudge if anyone wronged him.

 

Campbell was a man who liked to fish and to hunt.  He had licences to do so on the lands around him, with one exception, the land owned by Alexander Montgomerie, the Earl of Eglinton.  The Earl was extremely strict about who could shoot or fish on his land and very rarely granted licences to anyone.  For many years this was not an issue to Campbell until one day in October 1769.  On that day he went out in with two of his colleagues to search the local coastline for any smuggled goods hidden in the sands awaiting collection.  Campbell, being the lead Excise man carried his gun with him in case they met with any violence when trying to seize illicit goods.  They found none and, on their way back to Saltcoats, they cut up from the beach and through Lord Eglinton’s land.  As they walked through his estate a hare suddenly ran out from a nearby bush and Campbell’s hunting instincts kicked in and without thinking, he took aim and shot it.  The shot was heard by Lord Eglinton who immediately demanded that one of his servants go to see what was going on.  The servant sent to investigate, Alexander Bartleymore, was someone who’d had a run in with Campbell, as he had been caught transporting kegs of smuggled rum.  The rum had been seized and destroyed by Campbell and his men.  Since then, Bartleymore had held a grudge against Campbell, so on seeing he had shot a hare on Lord Eglington’s land he demanded that Campbell come with him and explain himself to the Earl.  Campbell obliged and accompanied him back to Lord Eglinton’s house.  There, the Earl raged at Campbell for shooting on his land but eventually accepted Campbell’s explanation and apologies.  Campbell then assured him that it would not happen again.

 

A few weeks later, on the 24 October 1769, Campbell set out with his colleague John Brown to inspect a few areas along the coastline where they suspected that smuggled goods were being hidden.  Again, they found nothing.  As they returned home, they walked along the beach that ran around the Earl of Eglinton’s land.  Bartleymore happened to see them and thinking he could cause some mischief, he immediately informed Lord Eglinton that Campbell was hunting on his land again.  The Earl, was in his carriage, having just left his home to travel to Fairlie when stopped by Bartleymore, he then left the carriage, took a horse and along with Bartleymore and four other servants, rode out to where Campbell and Brown were on the beach.  He called Campbell a scoundrel, demanded to know why he had been hunting on his land and ordered him to hand over his gun.  Campbell denied that he and Brown had been hunting, pointed out that they did not have a dog with them and that he had shot nothing that day.  He then told the Earl that he would hand his gun over to no man.  The Earl however demanded Campbell’s gun and began walking towards him as if he intended to take the gun by force.  Campbell began to back away from the Earl holding his loaded and cocked gun at his side in a defensive posture, much in the way that he would have been taught to do as a soldier during retreat.  The Earl then asked Campbell if he intended to shoot him and told him that he was just as good a shot as Campbell.  He then told one of his servants to go back to his carriage and fetch his gun.  At this Campbell’s colleague Brown, who was in great fear about what was going to take place, walked away and left the unfolding scene. 

 

Lord Eglinton then again walked towards Campbell and Campbell retreated, however, as he did so he stumbled on a stone and fell backwards.  According to Campbell, on falling he accidentally fired the gun and shot the Earl by mistake.  However, according to Lord Eglington’s servants, Campbell fell onto his back and the Earl, smiling at Campbell’s fall walked towards him.  Campbell then deliberately fired at close range into the Earl’s belly.  The Earl cried out that Campbell had murdered him, and Campbell threw away his gun.  He was then set on by the Earl’s servants but managed to break from them and tried to grab the Earl’s gun from the servant who had just arrived with it.  They fought briefly before Campbell was overpowered and struck to the ground by the other servants.   The Earl on seeing the beating Campbell was taking from his men cried out to them to not harm him.  They then tied Campbell up and he was transported to Irvine in a cart, while Lord Eglinton was taken in his carriage back to his house.   There, at around midnight the Earl died from his wounds.

 

Campbell was transported to Edinburgh to stand trial at the High Court for murder.  At his trial Campbell claimed that the shooting had been accidental, and several contemporary newspapers wrote that it seemed likely he would be acquitted as there was evidence his gun had gone off by accident.  However, all Lord Eglington’s servants who had been present at the incident, testified that it had been a deliberate act on Campbell’s part.  That he had aimed and fired the gun a short time after falling.  The doctor who had attended to the Earl also stated that the dying man had told him that Campbell had deliberately shot him.  There were then various arguments by Campbell’s Counsel that the shooting, if deliberate, could be seen as an act of self-defence, given the aggressive actions of the Earl, especially as Campbell was not on his land when confronted by him.  At the conclusion of the trial the jury found Campbell guilty by a majority of nine to six.  The judge then read out the sentence and this was that Campbell – ‘was to be carried back from the bar to the Tolbooth of Edinburgh, therein to remain, and be fed on bread and water only…until Wednesday the eleventh day of April next to come, and upon that day to be taken forth of the said Tolbooth, and carried to the common place of execution in the Grassmarket of Edinburgh; and then and there, betwixt the hours of two and four o’clock in the afternoon of the said day, to be hanged by the neck by the hands of the common executioner, upon a gibbet, until he be dead; and his body thereafter to be delivered to Doctor Alexander Monro…to be by him publicly dissected and anatomized…’

 

A sketch of several people standing on ground in front of a tall building with steep roofs and a curved tower. 
Edinburgh Tolbooth – from a sketch made in 1817

 

Campbell had other ideas though and told the friends who had attended the trial that he would not be hanged for murder.  During the night, after his return to the Tolbooth, he hanged himself.  The next morning his body was discovered along with the following note for his wife –

 

‘You will find, my long and faithful companion, I have kept my word with you – Since I must die because I would not surrender my arms to a tyrannic Lord, I am resolved to avoid being a public spectacle – ‘Ere you receive this I am no more.  May every happiness attend you on earth, and may we meet in eternity, is the earnest wish of your’s even in death.’

Tolbooth, Feb 24 Mungo Campbell

 

There was then a bit of a legal kerfuffle over Campbell’s body, as his friends argued that it should be returned to them for burial rather than be dissected, as the sentence had not been carried out.  This point was eventually agreed, and his body was handed over.  As Campbell had committed suicide, he could not be buried on consecrated ground, so his friends had him buried at the foot of Salisbury Crags in Holyrood Park.  However, the friends of Lord Eglinton and the citizens of Edinburgh were a bit annoyed that Campbell had managed to avoid being executed.  Feeling they had been deprived of a good hanging, an angry crowd made its way to Campbell’s burial place and dug up his body.  They then carried it up to the summit of Salisbury Crags and threw it off into the chasm at the Cat Nick.

 

Campbell’s broken body was later recovered by his friends.  Rather than reburying him at the foot of the crags again and running the risk of further indignities being carried out on his body, they had it transported to Leith.  There they hired a small boat and sailed out into the Forth where they weighed his body down and sunk it in the sea.

 

*           *           *

 

I don’t think I’ve seen anyone recently walking up this path to the Cat Nick.  I did it once many years ago with some friends, and all I can say about that experience is that I wouldn’t do it again.  Heights and me don’t mix, as I found out.  So, to get round there today, I took the easier route up the gentler slopes by St Margaret’s Well. 

 

On reaching the Cat Nick I took in the views over Edinburgh before leaving the Skulferatu that had accompanied me in a gap in some rocks nearby.

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #156) being held up with a view out over Edinburgh in the background.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Skulferatu #156

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #156) sitting in a gap in some rocks.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Skulferatu #156 in a gap in rocks by the Cat Nick

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #156) sitting in a gap in some rocks.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Skulferatu #156 in a gap in rocks by the Cat Nick

 

Apple Map showing the location of Skulferatu #156 
Map showing the location of Skulferatu #156

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 

Latitude 55.946138

Longitude -3.174302

 

what3words: eagle.bother.keeps

 

I used the following sources for information on the Cat Nick -

 

The Butchering Art

Lindsey Fitzharris

Penguin Books 2017

 

Historical Tales and Legends of Ayrshire

William Robertson

Hamilton, Adams & Co 1889

 

The Trial of Mungo Campbell before the High Court of Justiciary in Scotland for the Murder of Alexander Earl of Eglintoun

Robinson and Roberts 1770

 

Information for Mungo Campbell, Late Officer of Excise at Saltcoats, in a Criminal Prosecution before the High Court of Justiciary in Scotland, for the alleged murder of the late Alexander Earl of Eglinton

Undated

 

The Newgate Calendar, Volume 4

Ex-classics Project 2009

 

Traditions of Edinburgh

Robert Chambers

1868

 

The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland from the Twelfth to the Eighteenth Century, Volume Five

David MacGibbon & Thomas Ross

1892

 

Article and photographs are copyright of © Kevin Nosferatu, unless otherwise specified.

Tuesday, 25 August 2026

Skulferatu #155 - Dunbar Castle, Dunbar, East Lothian


While out and about in Dunbar, I took a walk down to the harbour so I could have a wander by the ruins of the old castle that once stood on the rocks there.  There is not much left of what once must have been a pretty impressive building, and the grounds of the castle are now closed to the public due to health and safety concerns over the crumbling remains and the steep cliffs beside them.  This means though, that they are now an ideal nesting ground for the local colony of Kittiwakes.  So called because of their call – kittiwake, kittiwake.  A call that dominates the harbour during breeding season as well as the rather pungent, fishy smell of their poo.  

 

A photo looking out over a harbour.  At the far end is a cliff face and crumbling stone wall.  Atop the cliff sits the rather striking angular remains of a tower of Dunbar Castle.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
View of Dunbar Castle from the harbour

 

Another photo looking out over a harbour - this one showing a closer view of the cliff face and crumbling stone wall.  Atop the cliff sits the rather striking angular remains of a tower of Dunbar Castle.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Dunbar Castle

 

A photo of a white and grey bird woith a yellow beak and black eyes (a Kittiwake) sitting on a nest in a cliff face.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
A Kittiwake nesting in the castle ruins

 

A photo of the remains of what may have been a towe in the castle.  It is now a jutting angular crumbling stone wall with a couple of narrow windows in it.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Ruins of Dunbar Castle

 

A photo of some very crumbly red stone walls sitting up on the slope of a hill.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Crumbling ruins of the castle

 

The history of Dunbar Castle stretches back nearly two thousand years to when the first fortifications were built on the rocks there by the Votadini people.  It was later a stronghold of Bernicia and then Northumbria before coming into possession of Kenneth MacAlpin, the King of the Scots.

 

The first stone castle built on the site is believed to have been constructed in around 1070 by Gospatric, the Earl of Northumberland.  He had fled to Scotland after being exiled by William the Conqueror and was granted the castle at Dunbar and the lands surrounding it by King Malcolm III.  The castle remained in his family’s hands for many generations after, with various buildings, extensions and renovations being carried out on it.

 

In 1338 the castle was the scene of a long drawn out and violent siege by the English army.  Led by William Montague, the Earl of Salisbury, English troops had surrounded the castle while Patrick Dunbar, the Earl of Dunbar and owner of the castle, was away on business.  Looking after things while he was gone was his wife, Agnes.  Also known as Black Agnes for her dark hair and complexion, she was someone not to be messed with, something Montague soon found out.

 

As this was in the time before canons came into use, the English army had brought with them several trebuchet type engines.  These were large wooden machines used to throw huge stones against the castle walls to try to smash them down.  As they unleashed a barrage of boulders at the castle, Agnes stood with her ladies and maids at the top of the walls, and they would amble over to the spot where a stone had hit and would rub it down with clean, white cloths as if they were dusting.  They would then laugh down at the English troops and ask if all they could do was make a little dust. 

 

Having realised that the trebuchets were not going to take down the walls of the castle, the English army then deployed the ‘Sow’.  This was an enormous machine, built of wood, with several levels and a roof on it.  It was used to transport men right up to the castle and protect them while they tried to dig under the walls to undermine them and then storm into the fortress.  So, the ‘Sow’ was pushed on its creaking wheels up against the wall where, peering down on it, Agnes shouted to Montague that he should take more care of his piglets.  She then ordered a huge boulder, that had been fired earlier into the castle, to be pushed over the wall and dropped onto the sow.  It crashed through the wooden roof, smashed through the floors and crushed the men below.  At the same time the archers within the castle let loose a rain of arrows, one of which struck a knight standing next to Montague, killing him instantly.  Montague, who obviously had a rather dark sense of humour, cried out to those by him – ‘Ah, there comes one of my lady’s tire pins; Agnes’s love shafts go straight to the heart.’

 

Having had no luck by using brute force, Montague decided that a bit of bribery may be called for.  Under the cover of night, he had one of his men pay the soldier on guard at the main entrance to leave the gate unlocked so that the English troops could easily make their way in.  The guard happily accepted a purse of gold coins and then told Agnes what was planned.  She then had her men made ready for the ‘surprise’ attack by Montague.  It was not long before Montague led a group of his soldiers to the castle where, as they entered, the portcullis was dropped by Agnes’s men, trapping one of Montague’s men who had pushed past him just as they went in.  The plan had been to capture Montague, and on seeing that they had trapped the wrong man, Agnes shouted down to him – ‘Farewell, Montague, I intended that you should have supped with us and assisted us in defending the castle against the English.’  At that, I imagine, Montague gave her the finger and walked off in a bit of a huff.

 

A picture of women with white cloths dusting the battlements of a castle.  In the centre is a woman dressed in red and gold (Black Agnes) who is smiling as if she doesn't have a care in the world. 
An illustration of Black Agnes on the castle walls

 

As the siege went on Montague tried one last ploy.  His men captured Agnes’s brother John and brought him to Dunbar.  John was then paraded by the castle with Montague telling Agnes that unless she surrendered, he would hang him in front of her and leave his body to rot.  Agnes replied to him that she he should go ahead and do that as she would benefit by her brother’s death, as she was his heir.  Montague didn’t carry out his threat, though whether Agnes and John’s relationship ever recovered after this I don’t know.

 

For five months the siege went on and by the end of that time those within the castle were nearing starvation.  Then one night a saviour appeared in the guise of Sir Alexander Ramsay.  He and forty of his men took some small boats and sneaked past the English ships guarding the seaward way to the castle.  With them they brought supplies of food and weapons.  With those in the castle feeling renewed and ready to fight again, Montague decided to cut his losses and he and his men packed up and headed off back down South.

 

Over the following years, Dunbar Castle had many owners and was the scene of various battles and conflicts.  It was destroyed a couple of times, then rebuilt and remodelled.

 

A sepia print showing the ruins of Dunbar Castle in around 1815 with two stone arches extending over the sea and a tall stone wall on rocks on the right of the picture. 
Print of the ruins of Dunbar Castle - 1815

 

In 1566, after the murder of Rizzio at Holyrood Palace, it was to Dunbar Castle that Mary, Queen of Scots, fled along with her husband Lord Darnley, one of those suspected of Rizzio’s murder.  She fled there again after the murder of Darnley, this time with Lord Bothwell who she later married, and who was the suspected murderer of Darnley.  And it was from Dunbar Castle that Mary marched to Carberry Hill where she ended up surrendering to her enemies.

 

In 1567 the castle was the scene of another siege when it was held by supporters of Bothwell.  The Regent of Scotland, James Stuart the Earl of Moray, finding them a complete pain in the arse, wanted them out.  Bothwell’s supporters held out for a short while but on realising that no help was coming, they surrendered. The guns of the castle were seized and removed.  It was then ordered that the castle should be demolished to prevent it from ever falling into the hands of the English.  This was partially done, but the cost of carrying out a full demolition was found to be so prohibitive that what remained of the building was just left to fall into ruin.  Much of what was left was then demolished in the Nineteenth Century to rebuild the harbour.

 

A photo showing the crumbling walls sitting on rocks with a rock arch between them.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Ruins of Dunbar Castle

 

A photo of a crumbling stone structure sitting precariously on a rocky cliff with a pebble beach below and the sea in the background.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Ruins of Dunbar Castle

 

A phoo looking out on a rocky outcrop in the sea on which sits the crumbling ruins of a tower and the castle walls.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Ruins of Dunbar Castle

 

A photo of a rocky hill with the crumbling remains of the old castle walls that almost appear to be part of the hill itself.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Ruins of Dunbar Castle

 

As I wandered around the harbour and by the castle ruins, all was busy with fishermen sorting lobster creels and nets.  While in the cliffs and the rough, weather worn ruins of the castle, Kittiwakes called out and flew to and from the nests they had built there.  Walking round to a quiet place by the cliffs under the castle walls, I left a Skulferatu in a lichen covered gap.

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #155) being held up with a view of Dunbar Castle and the harbour in the background.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Skulferatu #155

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #155) sitting in a gap in a lichen covered rock.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Skulferatu #155 in a lichen covered gap in the cliffs

 

Apple Map showing the location of Skulferatu #155 
Map showing the location of Skulferatu #155

 

The coordinates for the Skulferatu are -

 

Latitude 56.005296

Longitude -2.518109

 

what3words: blame.bulldozer.prospers

 

I used the following sources for information on Dunbar Castle –

 

Historical Tales of the Wars of Scotland and the Border Raids, Forays and Conflicts
Vol. 1
John Parker Lawson
1852
 
Scotland’s Story
A History of Scotland for Boys and Girls
H. E. Marshall
1906