Showing posts with label Dunbar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dunbar. Show all posts

Tuesday, 11 August 2026

Skulferatu #154 - Friarscroft, Dunbar, East Lothian


On a warm spring day, a rarity in Scotland, I took a trip on the train from Edinburgh down the East Coast to the small town of Dunbar.  There, I went for a wander along to the glamorous location of the Co-op supermarket.  Not that I had any intention of shopping there, rather I’d come along to have a look at an old ruin standing in a grassy bit of land just a few metres away from the supermarket entrance.  A red stone building that was once the tower of a priory church and was later converted into a dovecot. 

 

A photo of an old tall red stone building standing in a grassy area with trees all around that are casting shadows across the building.  Photo be Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
The Dovecot at Friarscroft

 

A photo of an old tall red stone building standing in a grassy area with trees all around that are casting shadows across the building.  Photo be Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Friarscroft Dovecot

 

A view looking up the red stone tower towards a deep blue sky.  Photo be Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Looking up

 

The church that once stood here was founded in around 1240 by Cristiana de Brus, the Countess of Dunbar, for the Trinitarian Order of Friars for the Redemption of Christian Captives.  They also went by the shorter name of the Trinitarians, though were more commonly known as the Red Friars.  The Trinitarians were founded in 1193 by John de Matha with the purpose of buying back Christians captured during the crusades and held for ransom.  The order was then confirmed by Pope Innocent III and instructed that its revenues were to be divided in three ways; to support themselves, to help the poor, and finally to pay the ransoms for Christians captured by ‘infidels’. Altogether the Trinitarians had eleven houses in Scotland and England, but all these establishments were quite small and consisted only of three friars and three lay brothers.  

 

A sketch of a man dressed in long robes and a cloak.  A cross is embroidered on the front of his robe and the top of his head is shaved making his hair circle around his head like a halo. 
A Trinitarian Friar

 

It is believed that the Trinitarians based at Friarscroft may have been responsible for founding an early hospital at Dunbar.  Little else is known about them and the priory itself fell out of use in 1529.

 

A sketch showing a building with a small doorway and a couple of small windows, with a roof that arches up to a tower. 
Sketch of the dovecot circa 1897

 

Recent excavations showed that the Dovecot was originally the central tower of the church, with the church building being thirty-nine metres long and eight metres wide, so pretty big for that time.  Excavations of the area also showed there had been a cemetery to the south of the building, and that there was evidence of ‘medieval ploughing’ to the north. 

 

 

A photo showing one of the grilled windows in the tower with a pigeons looking out from behind it.  Photo be Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
The Watcher

 

A photoi showing a pigeon sitting on a ledge of red stone underneath the black tiles of the roof.  On the roof stands another pigeon looking down.  Photo be Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Pigeons

 

As I had a look around the building and dodged the low hanging branches of the trees growing around it, pigeons flapped past me up to the entrance holes on the roof.  There they strutted and cooed, and ever so often peered down at me to see what I was up to. Maybe they were hoping that I wouldn’t notice the huge mound of pigeon poo at the entrance to the dovecot.  A mound so big that it had jammed open the small iron gate there.  A mound so big and smelly that I decided against trying to peer up through the doorway to see what it looked like inside, and to see if there was anywhere to leave a Skulferatu.  Instead, I went to a gap in the crumbling cement on the outside wall where I left the Skulferatu that had accompanied me.

 

A photo showing a small, ceramic skull (Skulferatu #154) being held up with Friarscroft Doocot in the background.  Photo be Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Skulferatu #154

 

A photo showing a small, ceramic skull (Skulferatu #154) sitting in a gap in a stone wall.  Photo be Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Skulferatu #154 in a gap in the crumbling cement

 

A photo showing a small, ceramic skull (Skulferatu #154) sitting in a gap in a stone wall.  Photo be Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project. 
Skulferatu #154 in a gap in the crumbling cement

 

TomTom Map showing location of Skulferatu #154 
Map showing location of Skulferatu #154

 

The coordinates for the Skulferatu are -

 

Latitude 56.001388

Longitude -2.518205

 

what3words: wedding.sweat.shipwreck

 

I used the following sources for information on Friarscroft –

 

The Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland

From the Earliest Christian Times to the Seventeenth Century, Volume Three

David MacGibbon and Thomas Ross

1897

 

English Monastic Life

Francis Aidan Gasquet

1904

 

Friarscroft and the Trinitarians in Dunbar

John Wordsworth

1983

Tuesday, 7 November 2023

Skulferatu #108 - Spott Parish Church, Spott, Dunbar, East Lothian


In the tiny village of Spott, near Dunbar, there sits a small, picturesque church.  Though very little, if anything, of the original building remains, a church has stood on that spot in Spott since the early 14th century. 

 

A photo of a one storey, rectangular church with a small bell tower on it.  The church, Spott Parish Church, sits in a graveyard and various old gravestones can be seen around it.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Spott Parish Church

 

I wandered up there on a warm and blustery day to have a look around.  It was a very peaceful place of old gravestones, trees and birds singing away merrily.  While inside the church a few members of the local community had met up for a bit of a get together.  Of course, I wasn’t there for socialising, I was there to leave a Skulferatu in a place with an unexpected dark history…especially if you were one of the early clergymen who preached there.

 

A photo of an old gravestone at Spott.  The gravestone is covered in white lichen and at the top, on each side, sits a carved skull.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Gravestone at Spott

 

A close up photo of one of the skulls on the lichen covered gravestone.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Detail of gravestone at Spott

 

Another photo of a gravestone at Spott.  This one sits against the wall of the church.  At the top is carved the emblem of a skull and crossbones.  There is a large square space in the gravestone where the epitaph would have once been...it is now blank.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Gravestone at Spott

 

Spott Church didn’t have a great deal of luck with several of its early clerics.  Around 1530, Robert Galbraith became the Rector of the church.  He was also a judge in the High Court and Court of Session at Edinburgh.  In 1544 he made a judgement on a case that did not go down well with the defendant.  So, unfortunately for Galbraith, while he was about his business in Edinburgh, the disgruntled defendant spotted him and murdered him.

 

A view of Spott Parish Church from the back of the old graveyard.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View of Spott Parish Church and graveyard

 

In 1559, John Hamilton, the brother of the Earl of Arran, was appointed as the Parson of Spott.  He later went on to rise up the ranks of the church and became the Archbishop of St Andrews.   However, in 1571 he was tried and found guilty of aiding and abetting in the murders of the Earl of Moray and also Lord Darnley, the late husband of Mary, Queen of Scots.  He was hanged by the Mercat Cross in Stirling a few days after his trial. 

 

A small gravestone at Spott with a primitive style skull carved on it.  The epitaph on it reads - Death is not loss but rather gain, if we by dying life attain.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Gravestone at Spott

 

A photo showing a very squint gravestone that has turned to an angle.  The epitaph on the stone is to John Ludgate, a carrier at Gifford who died aged 63 on March 12, 1823.  It is also dedicated to his wife, Agnes Swifton, who died on September 15, 1817 aged 55 years and their son Matthew who died in 1815, aged 18 years.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Gravestone at Spott

 

A photo showing a view over some rolling hills.  On one some sheep graze, while the other has been ploughed showing the red earth underneath.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View from Spott Parish Church Graveyard

 

In 1567, John Kello became the first protestant Minister of Spott Church.  He is also the most notorious.  John Kello was born in Linlithgow and as a young man married a local girl, Margaret Thomson.  John, who was an ambitious and eloquent man, decided to enter the Presbyterian Church and was ordained as a Presbyterian Minister while attending the first General Assembly in Edinburgh in1560.  He soon required a reputation as a powerful and stirring preacher and in 1567 was appointed to the Parish of Spott.  So, there he moved with Margaret and their three children.

 

At Spott, John’s reputation grew as a preacher, preachers being the rock stars of those days.  However, unlike rock stars, preachers weren’t paid very well. John had soon come to realise this and looked for ways to better himself as he wanted the finer things in life, he wanted land, prestige, and wealth.  When he had married Margaret, she had brought a small dowry with her.  John thought he could maybe use her dowry to make some money and so he used it to buy and sell land.  Unfortunately, a couple of his land deals went wrong, and he ended up in debt.

 

While he fretted about his debts and ways to make more money, John’s sermons still attracted a good crowd to the church.  One of his congregation was a rich young woman who had recently been widowed.  Being a very pious type, she would often seek John out for spiritual advice.  John found that he enjoyed her company and soon his thoughts turned to how his life would be if he was married to her and had her fortune as his own.  She would make him a rich man of some social standing.  If he were married to her, he could achieve his ambitions.  The more he thought like this, the more he began to despise his own wife, Margaret.  He became bitter and began to blame her for his failings.    

 

Margaret, who by all accounts was a cheerful and likeable person, and a loving wife, soon bore the brunt of John’s anger at his thwarted ambitions. She, however carried on in her sunny and loyal way assuming that John’s moods would soon pass, and he would be her loving husband once again.  This annoyed John even more and he began to wish she would just die.  If she were dead, then he could marry again and marry well.  He then began to think about ways to kill her and decided that he could achieve his ambitions in life if he murdered her.

 

Once he had made the decision to murder Margaret, John acquired some poison and used that in an attempt to kill her.  It didn’t work.  She was a fit, healthy woman with a strong constitution and the poison had no noticeable effect on her.   On the Sunday morning after his first attempt at killing his wife, John tried again.  Knowing that she would pray in their bedroom in the morning, he sneaked in behind her with a length of rope in his hands.  As she prayed, he pounced, pulled the rope around her neck, and strangled her.  He then hung her lifeless body from a beam in the room, locked the door from inside, leaving the key in the lock and then slipped out of the bedroom window, shutting it behind him.  As the church bells rang, he walked through the graveyard greeting members of his congregation as they arrived. In the church he stood in the pulpit and gave a passionate sermon.

 

After the sermon was over, John invited several members of the congregation to come over to his house to eat there.  He told them that lately his wife had been very depressed, and it would cheer her up to have some company.  Off they went to the house where John called out to his wife, but there was no answer.  He then went to their bedroom and called out to his guests that the door was locked.  Then in front of them, he kicked the door open, and all saw poor Margaret hanging dead from the beam.  John collapsed to the ground sobbing as they cut Margaret down.  His tears of anguish seemed so real to those guests he’d invited in, that no one suspected anything other than Margaret had taken her own life.

 

For the first few days after Margaret’s death, John was a happy man.  He was free to marry again, maybe in a few months’ time he could propose to his widowed parishioner and then settle down to the life he deserved.  A life with money and property and status.  But then the gnarly issue came up of Margaret’s burial, as a suicide she could not be buried on consecrated ground and so she was instead buried in an unmarked grave in a nearby field.  Her reputation ruined and her soul damned forever, people no longer spoke of her, and her and John’s children were told to forget her.  The guilt of it all began to weigh heavy on John’s mind.  What had he done?  He began to remember the Margaret who he had loved and had loved him.  He remembered her terrified and disbelieving eyes looking up at him as he had killed her.  She had always trusted him, looked after him, believed in him and he had betrayed it all.  He had betrayed her, and he had betrayed his God.  After a few weeks John could take the guilt no more and so he set off to Edinburgh where he called on a judge and made a full confession to him.  John was then taken to the Tolbooth in Edinburgh to await trial.

 

John’s trial was a quick affair where he again made a full confession, was found guilty of the murder of his wife, and was sentenced to death.  On the 4th of October 1570, John was taken to Gallow Lee on the outskirts of old Edinburgh.  There he preached his final sermon where he basically blamed Satan for making him do it, and then he was hanged.  Once dead, his body was cut down and burnt to ash.

 

After John Kello, Spott Church had many more Ministers, though no more who were murderers, murdered or executed.

 

I left the Skulferatu that accompanied me on my walk in a gap in a wall outside the church.

 

A photo showing a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #108) being held up with Spott Parish Church in the background.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #108

 

A photo showing a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #108) in a gap in a stone wall.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #108 in a gap in the wall outside the church

 

A photo showing a closer view of the small ceramic skull (Skulferatu #108) in a gap in a stone wall. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #108 in a gap in the wall outside the church

 

TomTom Map showing the location of Skulferatu #108
Map showing the location of Skulferatu #108

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 

Latitude 55.9722

Longitude -2.524426

 

what3words: masses.flags.settle

 

I used the following sources for information on Spott Parish Church –

 

The Examiner
No.843, Sunday, March 28, 1894

 

Twelve Scots Trials
by William Roughead
1913

 

Spott Church Website

 

 

 

 

 

Tuesday, 10 October 2023

Skulferatu #106 - Innerwick Castle, Dunbar, East Lothian


The ruins of Innerwick Castle sit on a sandstone outcrop, above a steep, rocky ravine that drops down through Thornton Glen, to the shallow waters of Thornton burn.  On the other side of the glen once stood Thornton Castle, of which nothing now remains. Whether there was some strategic importance to the castles being so close together I don’t know, though they were near to the Great North Road that ran from London to Edinburgh, so maybe they were some sort of strongholds against the English army, that occasionally marched up that way to carry out an invasion or get up to some mischief making. 

 

Built in the 14th Century, Innerwick Castle was once the stronghold of the Hamilton family, and the history of the castle, like that of many castles, is bloody and violent.  It fell into the hands of the English after their success at the battle of Homildon Hill in 1402.  Then, in 1406, it was besieged by the army of the Scottish nobleman, Robert Stewart, and was recaptured and destroyed.  A few years later it was rebuilt and appears to have enjoyed a period of prosperity when it was extended several times.

 

A photo of a jagged ruin of a red stone wall with trees on one side of it.  This is the first view of the remains of Innerwick Castle from the path leading up to it.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View of the ruins of Innerwick Castle

 

A photo of a ruin sitting on top of a red stone cliff.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View of the ruins of Innerwick Castle

 

A photo of a ruin sitting on top of a red stone cliff.  These being the remains of Innerwick Castle.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View of the ruins of Innerwick Castle

 

A photo of a ruin sitting on top of a red stone cliff.  The view is looking straight up underneath the rocks and the windows in the ruin and a gap in the rocks combine to make it look like a face.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View of the ruins of Innerwick Castle

 

A sketch of a ruined castle sitting atop a cliff.
Sketch of Innerwick Castle from ‘The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland’

 

This period of peace and prosperity ended in the mid-16th Century when Scotland and England became involved in a series of vicious and violent confrontations, known as the ‘Rough Wooing’.  During this time the English forces carried out a series of attacks and invasions into Scotland, in an attempt to compel the Scottish Parliament to confirm the terms of the Treaty of Greenwich.  This treaty, which had been agreed by Henry VIII of England and James Hamilton, the Regent of Scotland, included a proposal that Mary, Queen of Scots, and Henry’s son Edward should wed when they were of age.  However, the Scottish Parliament had rejected the treaty, much to Henry’s displeasure.    In 1547, Henry was dead, and his young son was King, though the real power lay with his Protector, Edward Seymour, the Duke of Somerset.  And Seymour, being an ambitious sort, decided it was time to get the treaty sorted, so he led an army into Scotland.   

 

On the 6th of September 1547, a unit of English hakbutters (men armed with an early form of musket) besieged Innerwick Castle. The castle was defended by the Master of Hamilton and eight other men.  They barricaded the doors, blocked up the stairs and defended from the castle battlements. However, the hakbutters blasted away at them with their guns, and managed to force their way into the vaults below. There they piled up straw and wood and set the castle ablaze.  Blinded and suffocated by the smoke, those defending the castle cried out for mercy, but the hakbutters burst through the doors onto the battlements and shot dead eight of them on the spot.  The ninth, who saw what fate had befallen his comrades, jumped from the castle battlements in a desperate effort to save himself, falling 70 feet down the ravine and into the river below.  Miraculously, he survived and on seeing this, the hakbutters above in the castle, allowed him to escape.  Unfortunately for the poor man, he ran towards nearby Thornton Castle, unaware that it too was being attacked by English troops.  On being spotted by them he was ‘slain’.  Shortly after his death, Thornton Castle also fell into the hands of the English troops who blew it up with gunpowder.

 

A print of a ruined castle atop a cliff.
Innerwick Castle from ‘The Antiquities of Scotland’

 

A photo of an overgrown area with a ruined red stone wall sticking out with various empty window spaces in it.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View of the ruins of Innerwick Castle

 

A photo of an overgrown area with a ruined red stone wall sticking out of it.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View of the ruins of Innerwick Castle

 

A photo of an overgrown jumble of red stones that must have once been part of the walls of Innerwick Castle.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View of the ruins of Innerwick Castle

 

A photo of a stone arch that is almost hidden by the green of surrounding trees.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View of the ruins of Innerwick Castle


A photo of a stone corridor with an old arched doorway in it.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Vaults at Innerwick Castle

 

A view through a ruined stone doorway into an overgrown area with another doorway in the distance.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Vaults at Innerwick Castle

 

A photo of a tangle of tree branches that almost look like roots.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Tree over entrance into the vaults

 

A photo of a stone walled room with an arched roof and a window at the far end.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Vaults at Innerwick Castle

 

A photo of a small green plant growing in a hole in the wall of the castle.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Hole in the wall


A photo of a red stone wall made up of lots of different sized and shaped stones.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Stones in the wall

 

A photo of some faded graffiti on a red stone in the wall.  It shows a smiling sun and the name Gael M.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Graffiti on the vault walls

 

A photo of a large, ruined stone arched room.  There is now no wall at the back and the view out from it is of lots of trees.   Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Vaults at Innerwick Castle

 

Though much of Innerwick Castle was badly damaged by the attack in 1547, parts of it must have been habitable, as in the 1650s the Covenanters used it as one of their bases from which they harassed and attacked Oliver Cromwell’s troops.  Later, in the 1820s, the castle was home to a local man called Sandy Cowe.  Living there on his own, he grew garden plants in parts of the castle and on its grounds, which he sold around the county.

 

The ruins of Innerwick Castle have been an inspiration for many artists from the amateur to the well-known.  In 1831, J.M.W. Turner was invited up to Edinburgh to meet up with Sir Walter Scott and his publisher, to discuss his illustrating of Scott’s Poetical Works.  On his way up, after a stop off at Berwick upon Tweed, he spent a couple of days in East Lothian sketching some of the ruined castles there.  One of these castles being Innerwick.  The series of sketches he drew are now held by the Tate.

 

A sketch of Innerwick Castle sitting on the top of a cliff.
J. M. W. Turner - Innerwick Castle, East Lothian, 1831, Photo © Tate

 

The land in which the castle sits in is now a nature reserve owned by the Scottish Wildlife Trust.  A steep, narrow, earth trodden path leads up to it, and it was up this path that I trudged on a fine, still day.  Ignoring the sign warning of the dangers of loose masonry, I made my way inside the castle and wandered through what remained of the vaults and once grand rooms.  I took in the views over Thornton Glen and then after my wanderings, left the Skulferatu that had accompanied me, in a gap in the wall of a swirling tower where a stairwell to the upper levels had once stood.

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull being held up in front of the large, ruined stone arched room.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #106


A photo of a wall with an empty window low down and stones paced in the wall where steps would once have been.  In a gap in the wall, almost out of sight, sits a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 106).  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #106 in the swirling stairwell tower

 

A photo of a swirling wall with stones paced in the wall where steps would once have been.  In a gap in the wall, almost out of sight, sits a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 106).  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #106 in the swirling stairwell tower

 

A small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 106) sitting in a gap in a red stone in the wall of Innerwick Castle.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #106 in a gap in the wall

 

TomTom Map showing location of Skulferatu #106
Map showing location of Skulferatu #106

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 

Latitude 55.955625

Longitude -2.425939

 

what3words: aimlessly.stealthier.superhero

 

I used the following sources for information on Innerwick Castle –

 

Canmore
 
by Francis Grose
1797
 
The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland from the Twelfth to the Eighteenth Century
Volume Three
by David MacGibbon and Thomas Ross
1889
 
Tudor Tracts 1532 - 1588
Of the Expedition into Scotland by William Patten
1903
 

The Autobiography of a Working Man
1848 
by Alexander Somerville

 
Tate
 

Landscapes of Memory 
Turner as Illustrator to Scott
by Gerald Finley
1980