Tuesday, 25 June 2024

Skulferatu #122 - Wallace's Cave, Roslin, Midlothian

 

‘Mud, mud, glorious mud
Nothing quite like it for cooling the blood
So follow me, follow
Down to the hollow
And there let us wallow in glorious mud…’

 

The chorus to Flanders and Swann’s Hippopotamus Song is what came to mind as I took a walk along the paths of Roslin Glen.  Though I was out on what was a pleasant and sunny day, the night before it had poured and poured, and the narrow paths leading around the gorge were thick, squelching mud. To a chorus of bird song and the burbling of the river below, I slipped and slid my way through a mire of dirty brown ooze.  Not that I was complaining, I’ve always found that a walk through the woods makes me feel quite relaxed, no matter how manky it is.  It is probably something to do with the trees, their movement in the breeze and their calming aura.  Or maybe something to do with a primordial memory of the forests our ancestors once inhabited.  Whatever, a walk in the woods is always very calming.

 

A view between the trunks of two trees of a tree covered slope.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
In the woods at Roslin Glen

 

A view of trees on one slope that overlooks trees on an opposing slope in Roslin.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
In the woods at Roslin Glen

 

A leafless tree that looks as if it is waving up to the sky.  Below the ground is covered in the green shoots of wild garlic with a muddy path cutting through.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
In the woods at Roslin Glen

 

A cheeky little frog sitting in the dirt.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A frog

 

So, I sploshed my way along the path saying hello to a frog or two on my way, and then came to a set of very wet and slippy looking stone steps that led down the embankment of the gorge.  However, despite the way they looked, I found that grip on them was no problem, and it was easy to walk on down them.  They then led to a narrow, trodden earth path that brought me to the entrance of a cave.  This is Wallace’s Cave, named after William Wallace, you know the one, the guy with the painted blue face who looked a bit like Mel Gibson, though was probably slightly less antisemitic.

 

The reason the cave acquired its name is that there is a local legend that William Wallace hid from the English army here.  The story goes that Wallace and his followers had been in a battle against the English where they had been massively outnumbered and outmanoeuvred.  After being heavily defeated, they had then fled into the woods around Roslin with the English army in close pursuit.  Wallace and five of his companions then split off from the rest of his followers and made their way down to the cave.  There they hid for six days and nights while the English army scoured the woods for them, cutting down any man they found.  In the early morning of the seventh day, Wallace and his companions, who were now starving and half dead with hunger, left the cave and managed to make their way out of the woods and to a place of safety.

 

A path leading past some trees.  By the tree in the foreground are some stone steps leading down a steep looking bank.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Stairs down the embankment to the cave

 

A view up some muddy stone steps in a hillside.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Stairs down to the cave

 

A view looking up a rock formation to tree that towers above.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The cliffs above the cave

 

A side on view of a cave entrance on a steep hillside.  A large tree leans out just behind it.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Entrance to the cave

 

A closer view of the entrance into the rock of the cave, this is Wallace's Cave.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Entrance to the cave

 

The cave is man made and dates from prehistoric times.  Carvings found outside the cave on the rock face and inside the cave itself, are believed to date from the Bronze Age.   However, when, and why the cave was carved out into the stone of the embankment is not known.  Whatever purpose and function the cave served for the prehistoric people who created it are now lost in the mists of time.

 

A view inside the cave showing the low, arched roof and a dirt floor.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Inside the cave

 

A view inside the cave showing the red of the stone walls.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Inside the cave

 

A view looking out of the cave into the daylight where the branches of the trees in the glen can be seen.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View out from the cave entrance

 

A view along the cave looking out showing the curved entrances carved in the stone.  On the floors are scattered some of the dead leaves blown in from the previous autumn.   Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Inside the cave

 

Venturing inside the cave I found it to be quite a pleasant and sheltered space.  It was also quite dry; unlike many caves I’ve visited before.  In one of the recesses in the cave I found some of the plumpest, juiciest spiders I’ve seen in a long time.  They hung from the roof like luscious Gothic blackberries.  I imagine if Renfield had been locked up in this cave rather than the asylum, he would have plucked them from their webs and gobbled them up.  I was half tempted myself, and did wonder if maybe Wallace and his companions had munched on a few of them during their stay here.


A photo of a spider hanging from the ceiling of the cave, behind it is its shadow making it look like there is a huge spider hanging by it.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A plump, juicy spider

 

A view of a carving in the stone by Wallace's Cave of three swirling circles.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Carvings outside the cave

 

Before leaving, I left the Skulferatu that had accompanied me on my walk on a mossy ledge by the entrance of the cave.

 

A view of a hand holding up a small ceramic skull with the entrance to Wallace's Cave in the background.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #122

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull sitting on a mossy stone ledge in Wallace's Cave.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #122 on a mossy ledge

 

TomTom Map showing location of Skulferatu #122
Map showing location of Skulferatu #122

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are -

 

Latitude 55.856336

Longitude -3.151793

what3words: satellite.newlywed.drifting

 

I used the following sources for information on Wallace’s Cave –

 
Rutherglen Reformer - Friday 27 November 1885
 
 
 
Lyrics from ‘The Hippopotamus Song’ –
by Michael Flanders & Donald Swann, from the album ‘At the Drop of a Hat’
1960

Tuesday, 11 June 2024

Skulferatu #121 - Jacob's Ladder, Edinburgh

 

There are many long and steep footpaths and sets of stairs named ‘Jacob’s Ladder.’  They can be found all over Britain and elsewhere in the world. The name comes from the Biblical story in which Jacob had a dream where he saw a ladder that reached from the earth up to the heights of heaven. It was quite a busy ladder with lots of angels ascending and descending it. This prompted many a wit to later ask why they would do so if they had wings. Anyway, Edinburgh also has a Jacob’s Ladder, a narrow and steep path of winding stairs that rises from Calton Road up to Regent Road. The path was first recorded on a map in 1784, but is likely to have been in existence long before then.

 

A photo showing railings and an entrance down some steps, the cityscape of Edinburgh is in the background.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Entrance to Jacob’s Ladder on Regent Road

 

A view down steep steps curving around a corner.  On both sides there is a wall and in the distance can be seen a large stone wall with a tower and then railway lines and a cityscape of old and tall tenement like buildings.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A view down the steps

 

A view showing a stone tower on the right hand side and then down below railway tracks leading into a large and white roofed station building.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A view from Jacob’s Ladder over Waverley Station

 

A photo looking down on a train on the railway tracks.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A train passing below Jacob’s Ladder

 

Supposedly the path was once used as a funeral procession route from the Old Town of Edinburgh up to the Old Calton Burial Ground. How they did this, I’m not sure given the steepness of the path and the number of stairs, but seemingly they did.  Of course, back then there were maybe no stairs, just a very steep, twisting path. If that was the case, I can picture in my mind the bodies being lugged up the hill on the back of a cart by some worn out old pony, panting and snorting as it dragged its load, while behind it the black clad mourners huffed and puffed, as a fine Edinburgh drizzle soaked them through.

 

In 1860, a royal visitor paid a visit to and made their way down Jacob’s Ladder. Empress Eugenie, the wife of Napoleon III of France, had taken a brief trip up to Edinburgh, where she went for a walk around the city with her entourage. After visiting Calton Hill, much to the amazement of the gathered press, she led those with her down the steep and narrow path of Jacob’s Ladder in the sleet and rain, as she wanted to walk up to Arthur’s Seat. Unfortunately, the weather being so bad, she only made it as far as St Anthony’s Chapel in Holyrood Park before deciding to call it a day.

 

A view of steep and wet stone steps curving around with a stone wall on both sides.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A view down Jacob’s Ladder

 

A view through the bare branches of a tree to an old stone, tower like building.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View of the Governor’s House from Jacob’s Ladder
(this is all that remains of Calton Jail)

 

Jacob’s Ladder is gated at both entrances, and now these lie open all day every day. However, back in December 1883, these were heavily guarded when ten members of a group known as the Dynamitards were held at the nearby Calton Jail, awaiting trial at Edinburgh High Court. The Dynamitards were a group of Irish Republicans who wanted to establish an independent Irish Republic and, in the cause of this, carried out a bombing campaign, blowing up various sites in London and Glasgow with dynamite. The reason for the overwhelming security on Jacob’s Ladder while they were held at Calton Jail, was that there was a ‘wide sewer’ going up to the jail that could be easily accessed from the path by removing a couple of steps. Given this, there were worries that other members of the group could attempt a rescue or even just dynamite the jail. At the conclusion of the trial, all ten were found guilty of various roles within the bombing campaign, with five sentenced to life imprisonment, and the other five to seven years.

 

Over the years Jacob’s Ladder fell into disrepair, and at night became a path of shadows and darkness with a reputation as a place to be avoided. Then, in 2019 it was refurbished with handrails and lighting, making it a slightly less scary place for a nocturnal walk.

 

A photo of a stone wall sprayed with silver paint and then a black letter D sprayed on it.  On the wall are also the silhouettes of branches and leaves. Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
‘D’ – Shadows on wall

 

A black and white photo showing various metal structures and wires stretching off into the distance - the infrastructure for the electrification of the railway line.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Pylons and wires – towards Waverley Station

 

A black and white photo looking up a set of stone steps.  On either side is a stone wall - the wall of the right is sprayed with graffiti.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A view up the steps

 

A view under a bridge to an entrance in a brick wall.  On the wall are several neon light art pieces showing boats and a white boned skeleton.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The entrance to Jacob’s Ladder from Calton Road

 

An arched stone doorway in a brick wall with a sign hanging down that reads Jacob's Ladder.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The entrance to Jacob’s Ladder from Calton Road

 

On my wandering up and down the path of Jacob’s Ladder, it was busy with people going to and from work, and tourists exploring. This surprised me given what a wet day it was, and made it difficult to find a place to discreetly put a Skulferatu without looking like I was up to no good. However, during a quiet spell I found a hole in the wall that the Skulferatu with me could slip in nicely, and so I left it there. Then, as I made my way back up, I spotted a flash of brown fur on the grassy slope beside the stairs. Thinking it was one of the many city rats, I called out a hello and a little head appeared out of the undergrowth. The little head of a rather cute looking stoat, who gave a stare and quick sniff and then disappeared back out of sight.

 

A hand, gloved in fingerless gloves, holding a small Ceramic Skull (Skulferatu 121) with the stone steps of Jacob's Ladder in the background.   Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #121

 

A small Ceramic Skull (Skulferatu 121) in a small hole in a stone wall that has been spray painted white with a red border added.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #121 in a hole in the wall

 

A close-up of the small Ceramic Skull (Skulferatu 121) in a small hole in a stone wall that has been spray painted white.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #121 in a hole in the wall

 

TomTom Map showing location of Skulferatu #121
Map showing location of Skulferatu #121

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are -

 

Latitude 55.952903

Longitude -3.182683

 

what3words: brass.sector.stops

 

I used the following sources for information on Jacob’s Ladder –

 
Tourist Information at site
 

Edinburgh News and Literary Chronicle - Saturday 24 November 1860
 

Evening Gazette - Tuesday 11 December 1883

 
Edinburgh Evening News - Saturday 22 December 1883