Tuesday, 19 August 2025

Skulferatu #139 - Macduff's Castle, East Wemyss, Kirkcaldy, Fife

 

After taking a trip to the Wemyss Caves, I made my way around and up to the hill above them. On top of this hill, there sits a ruinous and crumbling tower, this is all that remains of Macduff’s Castle.  This Castle has traditionally been associated with the Eleventh Century Thane of Fife, Macduff, and was the setting of a very famous fictional murder.  It was here that Shakespeare had the evil assassins, sent by Macbeth, brutally murder Macduff’s wife and children. Of course, Shakespeare made all of this up and none of it actually happened, and though it was believed the Thane of Fife had a fortification somewhere around the area, it is not known where.  

 

A wooden model of a castle with a low wall around it and two small bushes growing inside the wall.  In the distance behind the model castle is a modern housing estate.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A model of how Macduff’s Castle may have looked

 

A sketch of the ruins of Macduff's Castle showing two towers with a building in the middle and a low wall surrounding the building.  Sketch taken from The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland from the Twelfth to the Eighteenth Century, Volume 4 by David MacGibbon and Thomas Ross.
Sketch of the ruins of Macduff’s Castle circa 1892

 

The earliest part of the castle that stands here now was built in the Fourteenth Century by the Wemyss family, who were descendants of the Macduff’s.  Later buildings were added in the fifteenth and Sixteenth centuries and the castle ended up consisting of two towers connected by a gatehouse sitting between them.  As with many castles, Macduff’s castle was owned over time by several families who added some buildings and modified others. Then in 1630 it was bought back by the Wemyss family.  The last records of it being in use was in 1666 when Lady Jean Wemyss, Countess of Sutherland, sent her children to live there as she was worried that the plague ravaging parts of England would reach Edinburgh.  It didn’t.  At some point after this the castle was abandoned and fell into decay and ruin.  Up until 1967, two of the castle’s towers still stood, but then fearing for the safety of children playing around the ruins, Fife Council had the eastern tower demolished.  Then, in the 1970s a Dovecote that had stood on the shore down from the castle was destroyed by the sea. What remains of the castle is crumbling and cracked with much hidden in deep undergrowth.  It is however now a Scheduled Ancient Monument.

 

A photo of the ruin of a red stoned tower building jutting out from bushed and trees.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The ruins of Macduff’s Castle

 

A closer view of the red stone tower.  Most of the front wall has gone.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The ruins of Macduff’s Castle

 

Macduff’s Castle, like all good castles, has tales of a ghost wandering its empty ruins.  Known locally as the Grey Lady, she is said to be the ghost of Mary Sibbald.  The story goes that she was a servant girl at the castle who was accused of theft.  At her trial she vehemently denied the charges, but was found guilty and sentenced to be publicly flogged.  The executioner who carried out the flogging was a cruel man, and so severely did he strike her that she died a few days later of her injuries.  Ever since, she has wandered the castle and its grounds silently protesting her innocence to anyone who may see her.

 

* * *

 

Ignoring the danger to life signs, I pushed myself through bushes and undergrowth and made my way around the castle. 

 

A view of the weather worn ruins of the tower building.  On the wall can be seen the marks left where the roof of the gatehouse was at one time.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Ruins of Macduff’s Castle

 

A view of a round tower on rectangular building.  Both are ruined with cracks running down the stone walls.  There are slit windows in the tower.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Macduff’s Castle rising up from the undergrowth

 

A round stone tower jutting out from undergrowth and a tree.  The tower has two slit windows in it.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Tower at MacDuff’s Castle

 

A view looking over fields of ripened corn with a few trees scattered here and there.  In the distance can be seen the sea.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View from Macduff’s Castle

 

At the back there was an entrance of crumbling stone into what I assume was a cellar.  Inside it was damp and dank with a floor littered with cans, bottles and a condom or two.  Lovely.  Leaving the cellar and cutting around, I made my way to the main part of the remaining tower and clambered up onto the crumbling stage like floor. 

 

A view inside the ruined red stone building.  There is a barred doorway with an empty window up in the wall above it.  A huge crack runs down one of the walls.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The crumbling ruins of the castle

 

A view of the tower stairwell and spiral staircase.  On one side are the stairs going up and there is a slit window there.  On the other side are the stairs going down.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The tower stairwell

 

A view of a wall in which there is an opening that looks a bit like a mouth while up above are two holes that look like eyes.  The holes are probably a fireplace and where the supports for the floor above would have been.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
A fireplace, maybe?

 

A wall of weather worn red stone - some of the stones have deep holes and pit marks in them.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Weather worn stones of the castle

 

Inside Macduff’s Castle

 

The place was a perfect setting for a performance of Macbeth, and I could almost imagine the arrival of the assassins –

 

Lady Macduff: (On being told by a messenger she should flee the castle)

Whither should I fly?
I have done no harm. But I remember now
I am in this earthly world, where to do harmed
Is often laudable, to do good sometime
Accounted dangerous folly. Why then, alas,
Do I put up that womanly defence
To say I have done no harm?

 

(Enter Murderers)

 

Lady Macduff:

What are these faces?

 

Murderer: 

Where is your husband?

 

Lady Macduff:

I hope in no place so unsanctified
Where such as thou mayst find him.

 

Murderer:

He’s a traitor.

 

Macduff’s Son:

Thou liest, thou shag-eared villain!

 

Murderer:

What, you egg?
(Stabbing him) Young fry of treachery!

 

Macduff’s Son:

He has killed
me, mother.
Run away, I pray you.  (Dies)

 

(Exit Lady Macduff crying - Murder!)

 

* * *

 

Before leaving the castle, I left the Skulferatu that had accompanied me in a hole in the wall of the tower.

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 139) being held up with the ruins of Macduff's Castle in the background.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #139

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 139) in a hollow in a red stone wall.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #139 in a hole in the wall of the castle tower

 

A close-up photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 139) in a hollow in a red stone wall.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #139 in a hole in the wall of the castle tower

 

TomTom Map showing location of Skulferatu #139
Map showing location of Skulferatu #139

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are -

 

Latitude 56.162476
Longitude -3.058048
 
what3words: chuck.steep.womb

 

I used the following sources for information on MacDuff’s Castle –

 

The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland from the Twelfth to the Eighteenth Century, Volume 4
by David MacGibbon and Thomas Ross
1892
 
The Complete Works of Shakespeare
The Alexander Text
1951
 
Leven Mail - Wednesday 19 July 1967
 

 

 

Tuesday, 5 August 2025

Skulferatu #138 - Doo Cave, Wemyss Caves, East Wemyss, Kirkcaldy, Fife


On a pleasant summer’s day, I took a trip to what at the time of writing was the brand new train station at Leven, and from there I went for a walk along to East Wemyss.  Before hitting the coastal path that would take me to my destination, I trudged through the towns of Methil and Buckhaven, two places that were once at the heart of Scottish industry and have suffered heavily since its demise.  Even on a sunny summer day they looked depressed and downtrodden places.  Places neglected by those in power, they had that forgotten air of towns pushed aside and ignored.

 

On reaching the coastal path I trudged along to the village of East Wemyss before taking a path down to the sea.  There I soon arrived at the Wemyss Caves; a set of caves carved out of the rock by the sea around eight thousand years ago.  Though a local legend says that they were dug out of the rock by the Pechs (Picts), who were short ginger haired men with long arms.  It was also said that they had feet so wide that when it rained they sat with them over their heads as if they were umbrellas.

 

There were originally eleven caves, though only six exist today, the others no longer being accessible due to erosion or collapse.  The caves were used as shelters by the early peoples who inhabited Fife, and they are regarded as historically significant given the number of ancient carvings that have been found on their walls.  Of the sixty known Pictish carvings in Scotland, forty-nine were found within these caves.

 

A photo showing the entrance to a cave in a rocky hill.  The top of the hill is covered in trees and bushes. Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Entrance to Doo Cave

 

On my visit most of the caves were closed due to storm damage, so my wandering around was mainly limited to Doo Cave, also known as Dovecot Cave.  This cave acquired its name for a reason that becomes obvious once you walk inside, there being hundreds of nesting boxes carved into the rock.  And though it is dreich and damp, it still seems to be popular with pigeons given the amount that fluttered in and out as I walked around. Then, as I stood very still to take a photo in the poor light of the cave, one rather confused pigeon decided that my bald head looked like a good place to land, making me jump as I felt its sharp little feet scrape against my scalp.  I think it got the bigger fright though, given the way it shot back out of the cave entrance.

 

The inside of a cave.  The rock is grey and pink in places and green with moss in others.  At the bottom square nesting boxes are carved into the stone.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Inside Doo Cave

 

Another view of the inside of the cave showing more nesting boxes,  the stone wallls and the dirt of the ground. Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Inside Doo Cave

 

A view of lots of nesting boxes carved into the stone of Doo Cave.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Nesting Boxes

 

Another view of lots of nesting boxes carved into the stone of Doo Cave.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Nesting Boxes

 

A view of a recess in the cave leading into darkness.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Inside the cave

 

A view looking out through the cave entrance showing a rocky beach and the sea beyond.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Looking out from the cave entrance

 

For many years the entrance to Doo Cave was walled up with an opening at ground level to allow access for gathering eggs or birds, with some openings higher up to allow the pigeons to get in and out. 

 

Doo Cave was once linked to another cave, West Doo Cave, which contained seventeen Pictish carvings.  Unfortunately, this cave collapsed due to the weight of a gun emplacement that was built above it in 1914.  There are various photographs and drawings of these now lost symbols which can found in old books documenting the caves and at the Wemyss Caves 4D website - Wemyss4D

 

A picture of some shapes and symbols that were carved on the cave walls - there are some bird like carvings along with crosses and other shapes.
Carving found in West Doo cave – from ‘The Sculptured Stones of Scotland’

 

After looking around the cave, and dodging pigeons, I left the Skulferatu that had accompanied me, on a cobwebby ledge by the carved stone nesting boxes.

 

A small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 138) being held up with the entrance to Doo Cave in the background.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #138

 

A photo showing some of the nesting boxes in the cave with a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 138) on a ledge amongst them.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #138 on a cobwebby ledge

 

A photo of a small ceramic skull (Skulferatu 138) sitting on a cobwebby stone ledge.  Photograph by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #138 on a cobwebby ledge

 

TomTom Map showing location of Skulferatu #138
Map showing location of Skulferatu #138

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are -

 
Latitude 56.161236
Longitude -3.058774
 
what3words: barrel.ending.solving

 

I used the following sources for information on Doo Cave –

 

Archaic Sculpturings of Cups, Circles, etc. upon Stones and Rocks in Scotland, England and other Countries
By J.Y. Simpson
1867
 
The Sculptured Stones of Scotland
John Stuart
1867
 
Examples Of Printed Folk-lore Concerning Fife With Some Notes On Clackmannan And Kinross-shires
Collected by John Ewart Simpkins
1914