Tuesday, 27 April 2021

Skulferatu #27 - Grave of The Great Lafayette, Piershill Cemetery, Edinburgh

 

In a rather non-descript and suburban Edinburgh cemetery there is buried a legendary entertainer, magician, and illusionist from a bygone era.  A man, who back at the start of the 20th Century, was one of the most sought after acts in both the USA and the Europe.  The grave is that of the Great Lafayette, and also his pet dog, Beauty. Today I took a stroll in the howling wind through the backstreets of Leith, Restalrig, Lochend and Piershill to pay them both a visit.

 

Grave of the Great Lafayette & Beauty at Piershill Cemetery, Edinburgh.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Grave of the Great Lafayette & Beauty

 

The Great Lafayette, whose real name was Sigmund Neuberger, was born on February 25th, 1871 in Munich, Germany. In 1890, when aged 19, he and his family emigrated to the USA.  There he worked for a while as a bank clerk, but always had an interest in the music hall and the theatre.  He started out as an amateur with an act that involved shooting with a bow and arrows.  The sort of act where he would shoot a coin out of someone’s fingers.  As time went on, he decided he wanted to try his luck in the entertainment industry and left home with £80 of his hard earned savings.  His parents couldn’t understand why he had left a good job at the bank to pursue such a financially insecure career and told him that he would soon return home penniless.  However, within weeks of leaving he had secured an engagement at Spokane Falls, Washington.   From there his career developed and he became renowned for an act that included quick costume changes, magic and elaborate illusions involving a troupe of actors, acrobats and animals.  He also sang, danced, played various instruments, and composed the music for his shows.  The Great Lafayette, as he was then known, became much in demand and was soon touring the world.  He commanded large fees for his act and was one of the highest paid stars of that era.  It was reckoned that he was earning around $44,000.00 a year, which in today’s money would be over three and a half million dollars.

 

One of his more elaborate acts, that soon became a favourite with audiences worldwide, was ‘The Lion’s Bride’.  This act, which involved a real, live lion in a cage, now seems a bit dated, cruel and full of racial stereotypes.  It is basically the story of a beautiful maiden who is shipwrecked in the Persian Gulf and then captured by the servants of the tyrannical monarch there, Alep Arslan.  Arslan is entranced by the maiden’s beauty and wants her for his harem.  However, the maiden rejects his advances, much to his annoyance.  Her lover, played by the Great Lafayette, attempts to rescue her, but she ends up back in the clutches of Arslan.  She is then offered the choice of becoming Arslan’s wife or being thrown into a cage with a ferocious lion. She chooses to die, rather than give herself to him.   Arslan has her placed in a cage with a real lion and in the finale of the act, which thrilled audiences, the lion would leap towards her, only for the Great Lafayette to burst out of it revealing it was actually him in a lion costume.  The real lion having been switched when a group of fire-eaters, jugglers and performers obscured the audience’s view of the cage.

 

While he was touring The Great Lafayette was given the gift of a pet dog by his friend Harry Houdini.  He named the dog Beauty and soon doted on her.  She went everywhere with him and became part of his act.  He spoiled the dog rotten and treated her as his best friend, buying her a diamond studded collar and giving her, her own room, in the house he had bought in Tavistock Square in London. 

 

In May 1911, the Great Lafayette arrived in Edinburgh with his troupe for a run of shows at the Empire Theatre in Edinburgh.  However, he wasn’t in Edinburgh long before disaster struck.  On the 2nd of May his beloved dog died suddenly.  Lafayette was heartbroken and had to have the best for Beauty, even in her death.   He had her embalmed and was given permission to have her buried at Piershill Cemetery, by the company that owned it.  This was under the provision that on his death he too would be buried in the same plot as his dog.  Even though he was completely heartbroken by Beauty’s death, Lafayette being the consummate professional carried on with the run of shows, all of which were sold out.

 

On the night of the 9 May 1911, The Great Lafayette’s act was all going as planned and the audience were enthralled.  They had watched as he shook out a large square of silk and dropped it to the ground, then whisked it away to reveal a Teddy Bear sitting there.  He made as if he was winding the bear up and it then came to life, danced around, and conducted the theatre orchestra before toddling off stage.  He had juggled with goldfish, produced two children out of a piece of cardboard and imitated various conductors of bands.  The finale had then been ‘The Lion’s Bride.’  Just as that had reached its conclusion and Lafayette and the other performers were taking their bows an electrical fault on stage caused the scenery to catch fire.  The audience at first assumed this was part of the act, until the manager had the fire curtain dropped and asked the orchestra to play the National Anthem.  This, and the fact that smoke was now pouring out into the theatre encouraged them to leave.  Remarkably they all escaped safely.  Things on the stage, behind the fire curtain, did not go so well.  The lion, which was terrified by the flames, was running loose and because of this no one could get past it to one of the fire exits.  Other performers were trapped by the flames from the burning scenery, and all was a scene of confusion.  It appears that Lafayette may have escaped from the flames at first, but on hearing of the situation with the lion had run back to try and save it.  This time he did not make it back out.

 

The theatre burned for three hours before the flames were brought under control.  The next day several bodies were recovered, and the newspapers made much of the body of Alice Dale being found.  She was the little person who had played the Teddy Bear and her charred remains were found still in the bear costume.   The body of the Great Lafayette was then found on the stage, though only it wasn’t actually his body, but rather that of his body double for several of his acts.  At the time no-one realised this and the body was cremated, and arrangements made to inter the ashes at Piershill Cemetery.  But a couple of days later another body was recovered under the rubble and this one wore an array of rings that were identified as those the Great Lafayette had worn.  Realising their error, this body was then cremated, and the urns switched to make sure the right remains went to Piershill.  In total eleven people died in the fire, all either performers or stagehands.

 

On the 14th of May 1911, the Great Lafayette’s funeral took place.  Despite it being a misty, damp day, huge crowds turned out to watch the funeral cortege of twenty carriages make its way through Edinburgh and down to the cemetery.  The cortege was led by the hearse containing Lafayette’s remains.  It was drawn by four ‘Belgian horses’ with ‘nodding black plumes on their heads.’  At the cemetery, the urn containing Lafayette’s ashes was placed in Beauty’s coffin between the paws of the dog.  A graveside service was then held before the coffin was lowered into the ground and the Great Lafayette was laid to rest.

 

The grave of the Great Lafayette and Beauty at Piershill Cemetery, Edinburgh.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The grave of the Great Lafayette and Beauty

 

Dedication to Beauty on slab of the grave of the Great Lafayette, Piershill Cemetery, Edinburgh.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Dedication to Beauty on slab of grave

 

Signature of the Great Lafayette on slab of his grave at Piershill Cemetery, Edinburgh.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Signature of the Great Lafayette on slab of grave

 

Lafayette left his vast fortune to his brother who promptly took the money and left the country without paying off the debts accrued by Lafayette, and also without paying the funeral costs. This resulted in a court case from which we learn that the total cost of the funerals for both Beauty and the Great Lafayette was £411.  In today’s money that would be about £48,700.  Probably not to bad for a showbiz funeral.

 

In 2011 the Festival Theatre, which stands on the site of the old Empire Theatre, held a series of events to mark 100 years since the fire and the death of Lafayette and the other performers.

 

I left the Skulferatu that accompanied me on today’s walk in the flower trough by The Great Lafayette and Beauty’s grave.

 

Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #27

 

Skulferatu #27 in plant trough at front of the grave of the Great Lafayette in Piershill Cemetery, Edinburgh.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #27 in plant trough at front of the grave

 

Map showing location of Skulferatu #27 by the grave of the Great Lafayette in Piershill Cemetery, Edinburgh
Map showing location of Skulferatu #27

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are:

 

Latitude 55.955495

Longitude -3.138674

 

I used the following sources for the tale of The Great Lafayette –

 

Newspapers –

The Evening News, London – May 10, 1911

The Globe, May 10, 1911

The Westminster Gazette – May 10, 1911

The Scotsman – May 11, 1911.  May 13, 1911. May 15 1911.

Strabane Weekly News – May 20, 1911

Sunderland Daily Echo – May 11, 1911

The Courier – May 22, 1913

 

Wikipedia – Sigmund Neuberger

Wikipedia - Sigmund Neuberger

 

The Edinburgh Reporter

The Edinburgh Reporter - The Great Lafayette Festival 9 May 2011

 


Article and photographs are copyright of © Kevin Nosferatu, unless otherwise specified.

Tuesday, 13 April 2021

Skulferatu #26 - Saltcoats Castle, Gullane, East Lothian


When I go cycling from Edinburgh to North Berwick, I like to take the coastal road and enjoy the scenic route.  Just before I reach Gullane, I turn off from the road and take the bumpy path along the John Muir Way and cut down to the rather spectacular ruin of Saltcoats Castle.  On a sunny day it’s relaxing just to sit in the castle grounds, rehydrate and take in the great view.

 

The tower of Saltcoats Castle can be seen in the distance with ruined cottage and outbuildings around it.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Saltcoats Castle with ruined cottage and outbuildings

 

The Tower of Saltcoats Castle can be seen through the overgrown outer area of the castle courtyard.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Tower of Saltcoats Castle seen through overgrown outer area of the castle

 

The history of this rather marvellous ruin starts with a legend of daring and bravery, or the needless slaughter of a wild animal, depending on your point of view.  The story goes something like this…

 

…back in the mists of time, when the lands that now make up East Lothian were sparsely populated and thick with forest and wild beasts, there was a huge, wild boar that terrorised the area.     This beast was enraged by anybody it saw on its territory and had chased, gouged and maimed a dozen or so people.  Soon it got to the stage where those in the villages were terrified of travelling to market, the peasants working the fields were terrified as they worked, the landlords in their stately homes were terrified of walking outside in their gardens and those travelling from Edinburgh towards England took a long route round to avoid the area.  The King, on learning what was going on, offered a large reward to anyone who could kill the boar and rid the land of its menace.  Many tried and died in their attempts.  The boar always seemed to be one step ahead of them and ambushed many a brave hunter, slicing through their weak and mortal bodies with sharp tusks that seemed to be made of steel.  Soon the boar was being seen as more than just a beast, it was a demon sent from Hell or a punishment from God.  The churches rang out their bells and the holy prayed in hope that the good Lord would end their torment.  But he didn’t.

 

Then along came a young man from the Livington family.  His family had fallen on hard times and he had decided that to improve their lot he would take on the challenge of killing the boar.  First of all, he set about preparing for the task and had a special glove made of thick leather.  The inside of this glove was heavily padded with down.  He also had a steel helmet, body armour and a sword made for the task.  Expensive though this was, he persuaded the craftsmen who made the pieces for him that he would pay them when he had killed the boar.  Such was his self confidence in completing this task that they all agreed to this and he was soon ready to go on the hunt for the deadly beast.

 

On a summer’s morning young Livington set off out into the forest.  As he went, he would call out every so often in order to attract the boar.  However, it was almost as if the beast could sense him and his purpose, and for hours Livington walked without seeing any sign of it.  Growing weary from walking, Livington stopped near a stream and drank from it.  He sat by it for a while and decided to give up for the day and to start his hunt again the next morning.  As he rose to make his way back out of the forest, he heard something crashing through the undergrowth.  It drew nearer and nearer.  Livington drew his sword and readied himself.  With a roar the boar burst through the undergrowth to where Livington stood.  The creature was huge with tusks like sabres and eyes that glowed red like the hot coals of a fire.  For a moment it stood still staring at Livington, then it stamped at the ground, snarled, and rushed at him with tusks out.  Like a matador, Livington spun to the side and the boar charged past.  It came to a skidding halt and turned again to face him.  It’s eyes burning with anger and hate it let out a roar and charged at him.  Livington once more sidestepped the boar as it reached him, howling with frustrated rage it turned and came at him again.  As it was almost on top of him Livington thrust his gloved arm down into its mouth.  The shock of this caused the beast to stumble and fall, taking both it and Livington to the ground.  The beast, unable to move its head enough to gouge Livington with its tusks, kicked out at him, catching him several times about the body and denting the armour he wore.  In this onslaught Livington almost lost grip of his sword, but just managing to keep hold of it he thrust it up and through the beast’s heart.  The beast let out a groan, almost human, then sighing it died by Livington’s side.  Exhausted, Livington lay by it and prayed a prayer of thanks to the Almighty Lord above.

 

A group of five woodsmen, had bravely ventured that day into the forest to chop wood, and had heard the commotion.  Cautiously they approached to see what was going on and saw Livington lying beside the body of the boar.  Thinking that he must have died in the fight, they went over to offer prayers for him.  On seeing that he was alive and suffering from no fatal wounds, they helped the exhausted man to his feet.  They then cut and stripped a large branch and tied the body of the boar to this.  Four of the woodsmen carried it out, while one carried Livington on his shoulders.  As they walked out through the forest, they came across a den of six squealing little piglets. The six little piglets mama boar had been protecting from those who encroached on her territory.  These were gathered up, placed in a sack, and handed to Livington.

 

On hearing that the boar was dead, villagers from all around came out in celebration.  That night Livington and the villagers, from landlord to peasant, all feasted on suckling pig and wild boar sausages, black pudding, and roast pork.  All washed down with local ales and fine wines imported from afar. 

 

A few days later the King heard that the boar had been killed.  For Livington’s act of bravery and ridding the land of the terrible beast the King granted him the lands from Gullane Point to North Berwick Law.  It was on the land acquired by Livington, near to Gullane, that Saltcoats Castle was built.

 

Up until the 1790s the helmet said to be worn by Livington when he slayed the boar hung in the church at Dirleton in East Lothian.  When the church was being repaired the helmet was removed for safekeeping and was lost.

 

At the mouth of the Peffer there is a small stream that goes by the name of Livington’s Ford.  It is here that Livington supposedly slew the wild boar. 

 

Anyway, let’s get back to the castle…the name of Saltcoats Castle is thought to come from the fact that it stands on ground that was in ancient times a salt marsh.  The castle is a Sixteenth Century courtyard castle that rose to a height of three storeys.  It was enclosed by a wall and in the grounds, there would have been an extensive garden and orchard.  There was also at one time a bowling green to the east of the castle, though all signs of this have been lost as it has been ploughed over numerous times and become part of the surrounding fields.

 

The castle was built in around 1590 for Patrick Livington and his wife Margaret Fettis of Fawside.  In the early 1700s the castle and estate were acquired by the Hamilton family when James Hamilton of Pencaitland married ‘the heiress of Saltcoats’, Margaret Menzies.  The castle was inhabited until around the late 1790s, the last tenant being a Mrs Carmichael, who died there.  It was then left uninhabited for several years.  Around 1810 much of the stonework was removed to build farm steadings and walls.  The ruined cottage which stands at the side of the castle was built around this time and on its front wall there is a panel taken from the castle with the coat of arms of Patrick Livington carved into it.

 

The stone Tower of the ruins of Saltcoats Castle, Gullane, East Lothian.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Tower of Saltcoats Castle


Sketch of Saltcoats Castle tower taken from The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland from the Twelfth to the Eighteenth Century Volume Four by David MacGibbon and Thomas Ross 1887
Sketch of Saltcoats Castle from ‘The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland’ - 1887


Side view of the castle ruins and tower from across the remains of what was once a walled orchard and garden.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Side view of castle ruins and tower


 Side view of Saltcoats Castle tower.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Side view of castle tower

 

A view of Saltcoats Castle and the ruins of farm steadings, taken from a distance with a newly planted field in the foreground.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View of castle and ruins of farm steadings

 

Saltcoats Castle has now been designated as a scheduled monument.

 

The Skulferatu that accompanied me today was left on a ledge above the keyhole window on the tower.

 

View of a hand holding Skulferatu #26, with part of the tower of Saltcoats Castle in the background.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #26

 

A photograph of a keyhole window in the castle tower with a Skulferatu in the top left hand corner on the window ledge.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Spot the Skulferatu 

 

Close up of Skulferatu #26 on window ledge of keyhole window in the tower of Saltcoats Castle.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Close up of Skulferatu #26 on window ledge

 

Google Map showing location of Skulferatu #26
Map showing location of Skulferatu #26

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are:

 

Latitude 56.026982

Longitude -2.827307

 

 

I used the following sources for information on the castle –

 

The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland from the Twelfth to the Eighteenth Century

Volume Four

By David MacGibbon and Thomas Ross

1887

 

Lamp of Lothian or the History of Haddington form the earliest times to 1844

by James Miller

1900

 

St Baldred of the Bass and Other Poems

By James Miller

Oliver and Boyd

1824

 

Wikipedia – Saltcoats Castle

Saltcoats Castle - Wikipedia

 

Canmore – Saltcoats Castle

Canmore - Saltcoats Castle, Gullane

 

 

Article and photographs are copyright of © Kevin Nosferatu, unless otherwise specified. 

Tuesday, 6 April 2021

Skulferatu #25 - John Livingstone's Tomb, 1 Chamberlain Road, Edinburgh

 

Just along from Holy Corner at Greenhill in Edinburgh, down a quiet suburban street of nursing homes and large, villa type houses, there is what looks like a neat and well-kept garden.  It is a place I have walked past many times and have always assumed it was part of the garden of the house that stands behind it.  That is until a friend pointed out that it is actually the tomb of a long dead Edinburgh resident.

 

Tomb of John Livingstone, Edinburgh.  The forecourt of the tomb looks like a well kept residential garden and is paved with neat bushes and a green garden bench.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The tomb is in what looks like a well-kept and neat garden

 

Today I took a walk there and wandered on in.  I wasn’t convinced at first that I hadn’t actually just walked into somebody’s private garden, and was half expecting to be asked what I was doing there.  But on going through the gate, I found myself in a small walled area with a large gravestone on one of the walls and realised it was indeed an old tomb that I was in.

 

A gravestone forms part of one of the walls within the tomb.  Ivy grows around it and on the stone can be seen a grinning skull and crossbones and an inscription. Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
The gravestone within the tomb

 

The tomb is the burial place of John Livingstone and his wife, Elizabeth Rig.  Livingstone was an apothecary who lived in Edinburgh in the 17th Century.  In 1636 he purchased the house and estate of Greenhill.  At that time Greenhill lay well outside the city boundaries and was within an area known as Burgh Muir.  In 1645 the Black Death swept through Scotland, killing many in Edinburgh, Leith, and the surrounding areas.  Livingstone was one of those who succumbed to the disease and he died shortly after falling ill.  He was buried in the grounds of his house, rather than in one of the many churchyards in Edinburgh, as laws introduced to deal with the plague stipulated that the bodies of plague victims had to be buried outside of the city.  Livingstone’s house was demolished many years ago and replaced with the suburban sprawl of Victorian villas in which the tomb now sits.

  

John Livingstone's Tomb, Edinburgh.  A closer view of the gravestons shows that the inscription reads - The saint whose corpse lies buried here  Let all posterity admire  For upright life in Godly fear When judgements did this land surround  He with God was walking found  For which from midst of fears he’s crowned  Here to be interred both he  And friends by providence agree  No age shall lose his memory.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
View of the gravestone and inscription

 

On the gravestone within the tomb, there is carved a grinning skull and crossbones and underneath this are John Livingstone’s initials IL (I being an old way of writing a J, as can be seen on the word judgement on the inscription).  There is then an inscription that reads –

 

THIS SAINT WHOS CORPS LYES BURIED HEIR

LET ALL POSTERITIE ADMEIR

FOR VPRIGHT LIF IN GODLY FEIR

 

WHEN IUDGMENTS DID THIS LAND SURROUND

HE WITH GOD WAS WALKING FOUND

FOR WHICH FROM MIDST OF FERS HE'S CROUND

 

HEIR TO BE INTERRD BOTH HE

AND FRIENDS BY PROVIDENC AGRIE

NO AGE SHAL LOS HIS MEMORIE

 

HIS AGE 53       DIED 1645.


For those who don’t want to work through the old spellings, a straight translation is –

 

The saint whose corpse lies buried here

Let all posterity admire

For upright life in Godly fear

 

When judgements did this land surround

He with God was walking found

For which from midst of fears he’s crowned

 

Here to be interred both he

And friends by providence agree

No age shall lose his memory

 

There is also an inscription in Latin above the carved skull and crossbones that reads ‘MORS PATET, HORA LATET’.  This meaning - ‘Death is sure, the Hour obscure’ or to put it more simply, we are all going to die, but don’t know when.  Cheery stuff.

 

A close up of the grinning skull and crossbones on John Livingstone's Tomb, Edinburgh. The inscription in Latin above the carved skull and crossbones reads ‘MORS PATET, HORA LATET’.  This meaning - ‘Death is sure, the Hour obscure’ or to put it more simply, we are all going to die, but don’t know when.   Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Latin inscription on the gravestone

 

In the Book of the Old Edinburgh Club, Volume 3, there is a section by John Geddie on the ‘Sculpted Stones of Edinburgh’.  In this he describes the tomb and includes the following sketch, which clearly details the inscription.

 

Sketch by John Geddie from The Book of the Old Edinburgh Club of inscription on Livingstone’s Tomb, 1 Chamberlain Road, Edinburgh
Sketch from The Book of the Old Edinburgh Club of inscription on Livingstone’s tomb

 

Geddie rather wryly points out that despite the inscription stating Livingstone’s memory will not be lost, nowadays nobody does actually remember him or his ‘saintly qualities’.

 

Over the years the tomb fell into a state of disrepair.  In 1984 the council carried out research to see who owned it, as they wanted to issue them with a notice to carry out the work that was needed.  However, their research led them to realise that the tomb was owned by no-one, so they took it into their ownership and then carried out extensive repairs.  The restored tomb and forecourt were re-opened to the public in 1999.

 

I placed the Skulferatu that accompanied me on todays trip in a gap in the wall opposite the gravestone.

 

Skulferatu #25 at the tomb of John Livingstone, Edinburgh.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #25

 

Skulferatu #25 in gap in wall at John Livingstone’s Tomb, Edinburgh.  Photo by Kevin Nosferatu for the Skulferatu Project.
Skulferatu #25 in gap in wall at John Livingstone’s tomb

 

Map showing location of Skulferatu #25 - John Livingstone's Tomb, 1 Chamberlain Road, Edinburgh
Map showing location of Skulferatu #25

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

Latitude 55.934420

Longitude -3.205961


I used the following sources for information on John Livingstone’s Tomb –

 

Plaque on wall of tomb

 

Wikipedia Page on Greenhill, Edinburgh

Greenhill, Edinburgh - Wikipedia

 

Historic Environment Scotland Website – Article on Tomb

Historic Environment Scotland - Tomb of John Livingstone

 

Canmore Website

Canmore - John Livingstone's Tomb

 

The Book of the Old Edinburgh Club, Third Volume

The Sculptured Stones of Edinburgh

By John Geddie

Published 1910