Skulferatu #36 - Crichton Castle, Crichton, Midlothian

 

Today I went for a wander out of Edinburgh and along to the ruins of Crichton Castle.  The ruins sit just outside the village of Crichton, on a terrace that overlooks the picturesque scenery of the valley of the Tyne. 

 

View of Crichton Castle

 

Crichton Castle from hill above

 

The stable block with the castle in background

 

The stable block

 

In the Fourteenth Century a keep was built on this spot by the Crichton family.  In the Fifteenth Century the castle building was extended around this by Sir William Crichton and then later by others who had either inherited or were granted the castle and its lands.  Sir Walter Scott wrote of the castle in his narrative poem Marmion and also wrote a history of the castle, informing his readers that – ‘it was built at different times, and with a very differing regard to splendour and accommodation.  The older part of the building is a narrow keep, or tower, such as formed the mansion of a lesser Scottish Baron; but so many additions have been made to it, that there is now a large courtyard, surrounded by buildings of different ages.  The eastern front of the court is raised above a portico, and decorated with entablatures, bearing anchors.  All the stones of this front are cut into diamond facets, the angular projections of which have an uncommonly rich appearance.  The inside of this part of the building appears to have contained a gallery of great length and uncommon elegance.  Access was given to it by a magnificent staircase, now quite destroyed…’  Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see the interior of the castle today, as it was closed due to Covid restrictions.  However, I did find a drawing of the courtyard.

 

View of the courtyard - taken from The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland

 

The first recorded owner, Sir William Crichton, was a man who was remarkable for his time, having risen to prominence through politics rather than through warfare.  He became the Lord Chancellor under King James I and later he also became the guardian of James II.    He was a man involved in various intrigues and his main claim to fame, or infamy, would appear to be that he took part in organising the ‘Black Dinner’.  This was when the Sixth Earl of Douglas and his younger brother were invited to dine with young King James II and as they ate were seized, dragged away and brutally murdered.  Their great uncle, James Douglas, who had also been involved in the plot against them, then inherited their wealth and titles making him one of the most powerful men in Scotland at that time.

 

In the early 1480s the Crichton family fell out of favour and their lands were forfeited with the castle being given to Sir John Ramsay.  He then fell out of favour and in 1488 the castle was given to Patrick Hepburn, who later became the Earl of Bothwell.  The castle stayed with Hepburn’s family for a few generations, but in 1568 they fell out of favour, and it was again forfeited.  It was then handed over to Francis Stewart, the ‘bastard’ grandson of James V.  He carried out extensive work on the castle including having the decorative diamond faced façade added in the courtyard and a rather grand stable building built next to the castle.  However, guess what, he was then accused of witchcraft and plotting against King James VI.  He fled to Naples and in 1592 his properties, including the castle, were forfeited.  The castle was then reinstated to Stewart’s son, and he sold it on to the Hepburn’s of Humbie. It then passed through various owners who all seem to have just left it to crumble and fall into ruin.  The castle is now in the care of Historic Environment Scotland.

 

I left the Skulferatu that accompanied me on today’s walk in a crack in the wall on the outside of the castle.

 

Front entrance door to the castle

 

Skulferatu #36

 

Skulferatu #36 in crack in wall of castle

Close up of Skulferatu #36 in crack in wall of castle

 

Map showing location of Skulferatu #36

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

 

Latitude 55.839688

Longitude -2.991259

 

I used the following sources for information on the castle –

 

The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland from the Twelfth to the Eighteenth Century

Volume One

By David MacGibbon and Thomas Ross

1887

 

The Ruined Castles of Midlothian

By John Dickson

1894

 

The Scots Magazine and Edinburgh Literary Miscellany

1^st August 1808

 

Wikipedia – Crichton Castle

Wikipedia - Crichton Castle

 

 

Skulferatu #26 - Saltcoats Castle, Gullane, East Lothian

When I go cycling from Edinburgh to North Berwick, I like to take the coastal road and enjoy the scenic route.  Just before I reach Gullane, I turn off from the road and take the bumpy path along the John Muir Way and cut down to the rather spectacular ruin of Saltcoats Castle.  On a sunny day it’s relaxing just to sit in the castle grounds, rehydrate and take in the great view.

 

Saltcoats Castle with ruined cottage and outbuildings

 

Tower of Saltcoats Castle seen through overgrown outer area of the castle

 

The history of this rather marvellous ruin starts with a legend of daring and bravery, or the needless slaughter of a wild animal, depending on your point of view.  The story goes something like this…

 

…back in the mists of time, when the lands that now make up East Lothian were sparsely populated and thick with forest and wild beasts, there was a huge, wild boar that terrorised the area.     This beast was enraged by anybody it saw on its territory and had chased, gouged and maimed a dozen or so people.  Soon it got to the stage where those in the villages were terrified of travelling to market, the peasants working the fields were terrified as they worked, the landlords in their stately homes were terrified of walking outside in their gardens and those travelling from Edinburgh towards England took a long route round to avoid the area.  The King, on learning what was going on, offered a large reward to anyone who could kill the boar and rid the land of its menace.  Many tried and died in their attempts.  The boar always seemed to be one step ahead of them and ambushed many a brave hunter, slicing through their weak and mortal bodies with sharp tusks that seemed to be made of steel.  Soon the boar was being seen as more than just a beast, it was a demon sent from Hell or a punishment from God.  The churches rang out their bells and the holy prayed in hope that the good Lord would end their torment.  But he didn’t.

 

Then along came a young man from the Livington family.  His family had fallen on hard times and he had decided that to improve their lot he would take on the challenge of killing the boar.  First of all, he set about preparing for the task and had a special glove made of thick leather.  The inside of this glove was heavily padded with down.  He also had a steel helmet, body armour and a sword made for the task.  Expensive though this was, he persuaded the craftsmen who made the pieces for him that he would pay them when he had killed the boar.  Such was his self confidence in completing this task that they all agreed to this and he was soon ready to go on the hunt for the deadly beast.

 

On a summer’s morning young Livington set off out into the forest.  As he went, he would call out every so often in order to attract the boar.  However, it was almost as if the beast could sense him and his purpose, and for hours Livington walked without seeing any sign of it.  Growing weary from walking, Livington stopped near a stream and drank from it.  He sat by it for a while and decided to give up for the day and to start his hunt again the next morning.  As he rose to make his way back out of the forest, he heard something crashing through the undergrowth.  It drew nearer and nearer.  Livington drew his sword and readied himself.  With a roar the boar burst through the undergrowth to where Livington stood.  The creature was huge with tusks like sabres and eyes that glowed red like the hot coals of a fire.  For a moment it stood still staring at Livington, then it stamped at the ground, snarled, and rushed at him with tusks out.  Like a matador, Livington spun to the side and the boar charged past.  It came to a skidding halt and turned again to face him.  It’s eyes burning with anger and hate it let out a roar and charged at him.  Livington once more sidestepped the boar as it reached him, howling with frustrated rage it turned and came at him again.  As it was almost on top of him Livington thrust his gloved arm down into its mouth.  The shock of this caused the beast to stumble and fall, taking both it and Livington to the ground.  The beast, unable to move its head enough to gouge Livington with its tusks, kicked out at him, catching him several times about the body and denting the armour he wore.  In this onslaught Livington almost lost grip of his sword, but just managing to keep hold of it he thrust it up and through the beast’s heart.  The beast let out a groan, almost human, then sighing it died by Livington’s side.  Exhausted, Livington lay by it and prayed a prayer of thanks to the Almighty Lord above.

 

A group of five woodsmen, had bravely ventured that day into the forest to chop wood, and had heard the commotion.  Cautiously they approached to see what was going on and saw Livington lying beside the body of the boar.  Thinking that he must have died in the fight, they went over to offer prayers for him.  On seeing that he was alive and suffering from no fatal wounds, they helped the exhausted man to his feet.  They then cut and stripped a large branch and tied the body of the boar to this.  Four of the woodsmen carried it out, while one carried Livington on his shoulders.  As they walked out through the forest, they came across a den of six squealing little piglets. The six little piglets mama boar had been protecting from those who encroached on her territory.  These were gathered up, placed in a sack, and handed to Livington.

 

On hearing that the boar was dead, villagers from all around came out in celebration.  That night Livington and the villagers, from landlord to peasant, all feasted on suckling pig and wild boar sausages, black pudding, and roast pork.  All washed down with local ales and fine wines imported from afar. 

 

A few days later the King heard that the boar had been killed.  For Livington’s act of bravery and ridding the land of the terrible beast the King granted him the lands from Gullane Point to North Berwick Law.  It was on the land acquired by Livington, near to Gullane, that Saltcoats Castle was built.

 

Up until the 1790s the helmet said to be worn by Livington when he slayed the boar hung in the church at Dirleton in East Lothian.  When the church was being repaired the helmet was removed for safekeeping and was lost.

 

At the mouth of the Peffer there is a small stream that goes by the name of Livington’s Ford.  It is here that Livington supposedly slew the wild boar. 

 

Anyway, let’s get back to the castle…the name of Saltcoats Castle is thought to come from the fact that it stands on ground that was in ancient times a salt marsh.  The castle is a Sixteenth Century courtyard castle that rose to a height of three storeys.  It was enclosed by a wall and in the grounds, there would have been an extensive garden and orchard.  There was also at one time a bowling green to the east of the castle, though all signs of this have been lost as it has been ploughed over numerous times and become part of the surrounding fields.

 

The castle was built in around 1590 for Patrick Livington and his wife Margaret Fettis of Fawside.  In the early 1700s the castle and estate were acquired by the Hamilton family when James Hamilton of Pencaitland married ‘the heiress of Saltcoats’, Margaret Menzies.  The castle was inhabited until around the late 1790s, the last tenant being a Mrs Carmichael, who died there.  It was then left uninhabited for several years.  Around 1810 much of the stonework was removed to build farm steadings and walls.  The ruined cottage which stands at the side of the castle was built around this time and on its front wall there is a panel taken from the castle with the coat of arms of Patrick Livington carved into it.

 

Tower of Saltcoats Castle

Sketch of Saltcoats Castle from ‘The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland’ - 1887

Side view of castle ruins and tower

 

Side view of castle tower

 

View of castle and ruins of farm steadings

 

Saltcoats Castle has now been designated as a scheduled monument.

 

The Skulferatu that accompanied me today was left on a ledge above the keyhole window on the tower.

 

Skulferatu #26

 

Spot the Skulferatu 

 

Close up of Skulferatu #26 on window ledge

 

Map showing location of Skulferatu #26

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are:

 

Latitude 56.026982

Longitude -2.827307

 

 

I used the following sources for information on the castle –

 

The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland from the Twelfth to the Eighteenth Century

Volume Four

By David MacGibbon and Thomas Ross

1887

 

Lamp of Lothian or the History of Haddington form the earliest times to 1844

by James Miller

1900

 

St Baldred of the Bass and Other Poems

By James Miller

Oliver and Boyd

1824

 

Wikipedia – Saltcoats Castle

Saltcoats Castle - Wikipedia

 

Canmore – Saltcoats Castle

Canmore - Saltcoats Castle, Gullane

 

 

Article and photographs are copyright of © Kevin Nosferatu, unless otherwise specified. 

Skulferatu #23 - West Breakwater Lighthouse and Signal Tower, Leith Docks, Edinburgh

 

West Breakwater Lighthouse

 

This abandoned and now derelict lighthouse sits on a concrete platform at the West Breakwater of Leith Docks.  It was built in the 1950s and on the flat roof there was a massive semaphore device for signalling to ships out in the Forth.  The building fell out of use due to advances in technology and changes in shipping routes.  Today it is derelict and empty, weather battered and stripped bare. It is usually decorated with graffiti, though every so often the council come along and whitewash the building and resecure the fence around it. 

 

Walkway to West Breakwater Lighthouse

The lighthouse is now derelict and abandoned

 

Graffiti on the abandoned lighthouse

The lighthouse tower

 

 

Concrete support pillars underneath the lighthouse

 

I’ve always thought the lighthouse is a building that could have a second life as something…maybe a trendy café or restaurant.  However, given the practical difficulties and costs involved in this sort of transformation, it will probably just crumble away until one day the bulldozers come in and knock it down.

 

I left a Skulferatu under the lighthouse, at the back of the space created by the supporting pillars.

 

Skulferatu #23

Skulferatu #23 at West Breakwater Lighthouse

 

TomTom Map showing location of Skulferatu #23

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are –

Latitude 55.988837

Longitude -3.185501

 

Skulferatu #17 - New Calton Burial Ground, Edinburgh

 

I think I’ve previously mentioned that I do love a good walk around a graveyard, especially a graveyard with a bit of character.  New Calton Burial Ground is just such a graveyard.  Built on the slope of a hill with tiered graves and a watchtower overlooking it all, this graveyard has some spectacular views over Edinburgh.  So, what better place to go on a grey, dull day to take in some of Edinburgh’s unique scenery while contemplating one’s own mortality? 

 

Graves at New Calton Burial Ground, overlooked by the Watchtower

 

A view of the Watchtower

 

Near the main entrance stands the Watchtower.  This was built so that in 1820, when the cemetery opened, guard could be kept against graverobbers, or resurrectionists as they were known.  Recently buried corpses were regularly stolen from their graves to feed the need for bodies at Edinburgh’s medical schools.  The only bodies legally available to them at that time were those of executed criminals, and there just weren’t enough of those to go round.  So, a trade in illegally acquired bodies developed.  Fearing that their relatives, or indeed their own bodies when they died, may end up on the dissection table, people went to extraordinary lengths to prevent this.  These included extra deep burial, iron cages built over the grave and guards watching over the graveyard. 

 

The Watchtower was later used as a house and was occupied as such until around 1955.  Despite it being tiny, at one time it was occupied by a family of ten.  The building is now derelict and in a state of disrepair.  It is on the Buildings at Risk Register.

 

A view over New Calton Burial Ground

 

View from New Calton Burial Ground over Edinburgh to Arthur’s Seat

 

There are several notable people buried in the graveyard, such as a couple of the Lighthouse Stevensons and William Dick, the founder of the Dick Vet College in Edinburgh.  Another of the worthies whose bones lie mouldering here is the poet William Knox.  Little known nowadays, he wrote one of Abraham Lincoln’s favourite poems – Mortality.  Knox, who was seemingly related to the Presbyterian killjoy preacher John Knox, was quite unlike his austere relative and led a rather intemperate life.  He was seemingly a very jovial and much liked bloke, with many friends.  However, he was a heavy drinker who like many alcoholics found it difficult to manage his money and his day to day life.  His drinking destroyed his health and he died of a ‘paralytic stroke’ at the age of 36 on 12 November 1825.    

 

Gravestone of William Knox

 

For your delectation here is Knox’s poem Mortality in full.  It’s a lovely piece of over the top morbidity – perfect for an old Goth like me.  Enjoy –

 

MORTALITY

 

O why should the spirit of mortal be proud!
Like a fast flitting meteor, a fast flying cloud,
A flash of the lightning, a break of the wave –
He passes from life to his rest in the grave.

The leaves of the oak and the willow shall fade,
Be scattered around and together be laid;
As the young and the old, and the low and the high,
Shall moulder to dust, and together shall lie.

The child that a mother attended and loved,
The mother that infant’s affection that proved,
The husband that mother and infant that blest,
Each – all are away to their dwelling of rest.

The maid on whose cheek, on whose brow, in whose eye,
Shone beauty and pleasure – her triumphs are by:
And the memory of those that beloved her and praised,
And alike from the minds of the living erased.

The hand of the king that the sceptre hath borne,
The brow of the priest that the mitre hath worn,
The eye of the sage, and the heart of the brave,
Are hidden and lost in the depths of the grave.

The peasant whose lot was to sow and to reap,
The herdsman who climbed with his goats to the steep,
The beggar that wandered in search of his bread,
Have faded away like the grass that we tread.

The saint that enjoyed the communion of Heaven,
The sinner that dared to remain unforgiven,
The wise and the foolish, the guilty and just,
Have quietly mingled their bones in the dust.

So the multitude goes – like the flower and the weed
That wither away to let others succeed;
So the multitude comes – even those we behold,
To repeat every tale that hath often been told.

For we are the same things that our fathers have been,
We see the same sights that our fathers have seen,
We drink the same stream, and we feel the same sun,
And we run the same course that our fathers have run.

The thoughts we are thinking our fathers would think,
From the death we are shrinking from they too would shrink,
To the life we are clinging to, they too would cling –
But it speeds from the earth like a bird on the wing.

They loved – but their story we cannot unfold;
They scorned – but the heart of the haughty is cold;
They grieved – but no wail from their slumbers may come;
They joyed – but the voice of their gladness is dumb.

They died – ay, they died! and we, things that are now,
Who walk on the turf that lies over their brow,
Who make in their dwellings a transient abode,
Meet the changes they met on their pilgrimage road.

Yea, hope and despondence, and pleasure and pain,
Are mingled together like sunshine and rain:
And the smile and the tear, and the song and the dirge,
Still follow each other like surge upon surge.

‘Tis the twink of an eye, ’tis the draught of a breath,
From the blossom of health to the paleness of death,
From the gilded saloon to the bier and the shroud –
O why should the spirit of mortal be proud!

 

I left the Skulferatu that accompanied me on today’s walk in a hollow in a tree near the top of the graveyard.

 

Skulferatu #17

 

Skulferatu #17 in tree hollow at New Calton Burial Ground

 

Google Map showing location of Skulferatu

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are:

 

Latitude 55.953664

Longitude -3.177293

 

Skulferatu #16 - Cammo Tower, Cammo Estate, Edinburgh

 

Lying on the outskirts of Edinburgh, as you head North towards South Queensferry and Fife, sits Cammo Estate.  This was once a private estate, but was bequeathed to the National Trust and then given to Edinburgh Council.  It is now maintained by the council as a wilderness park.

 

Cammo House circa 1900

 

The remains of Cammo House

 

In the estate there are the remains of Cammo House.  This was built in 1693 for John Menzies and at that time had fourteen bedrooms, four public rooms, a smoking room, a billiards room, bathrooms, a kitchen, a wash-house, a laundry, cellars, larders, pantries and servants' accommodation.  A surrounding park and landscaped garden were then laid out around the house. 

 

The house went through several owners before being bought by the Clark family.  In 1909 David Bennet Clark divorced his wife Margaret Maitland-Tennent and she and her son Percival kept the house.  However, shortly after the divorce Margaret dismissed the staff and moved into a caravan with her son.  The house was left, still full of valuable paintings and antiques.  Over the years it was completely neglected and was broken into on numerous occasions.  During the break-ins it was vandalised and damaged, with various valuables also being stolen.  In 1955 Margaret died and the house was left to Percival.  He lived as a recluse with a pack of around thirty dogs, which were given a free run of the house.  On his death in 1975, the house and the estate were left to the National Trust.  In 1977 most of the house was destroyed by fire and the remains were later pulled down, leaving only the door frame and lower wall.  In 1980 the house and the estate were given to Edinburgh Council by the National Trust.

 

Cammo House is thought to have been the inspiration for ‘The House of Shaws’ in Robert Louis Stevenson’s novel Kidnapped.

 

On the estate there is also the very picturesque Cammo Tower.  This is a 19^th Century Water Tower built to supply water to Cammo House.

 

A view of Cammo Tower

Cammo Tower

A view of Cammo Tower

 

On my wanders around the estate, I left a Skulferatu in the wall of Cammo Tower with a view of the nearby hill.

 

Skulferatu #16

 

Skulferatu #16 in wall of Cammo Tower

Google Map showing location of Skulferatu

 

The coordinates for the location of the Skulferatu are:

 

Latitude 55.954275

Longitude -3.321390